I have always practised to get better,whether it be football,swimming and especially skating. I would spend hours on a skater practising tricks.

But surfing is different,waves don't come when you want or how you want,crowds make me just want to nurse that wave and milk it to the end as I have no idea when I will get another one.....yet I get some great uncrowded days up on the beaches here. So I love to try stuff I would not do on really good or crowded days. Cross stepping is still a bitch,some days I'm Josh others I prefer to forget..
But my new one is surfing switch,and I am really starting to make some progress. Amazing how excited I get when I pull off a new move.

So.how do you blokes go about it? Do you have a game plan before each session or wave? Or do you just wing it? Or are you just happy yo.catch a wave?

are you challenging me for w________ of the year chrispy


ps sorry couldn't help myself being the w_________ that i am

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laceys lane said...
are you challenging me for w________ of the year chrispy


ps sorry couldn't help myself being the w_________ that i am

Hahaha...no it was a serious question. just interested....plus I'm a damn good candidate for W O T Y

No secret formula here .... I keep getting up at daybreak ,I keep slowly (sometimes faster) punching away .... keep moving keep going never stop .... ever again ....fark it I will Carc it out there if it be so ....

I'm sh1t hot (in a WOTY kind of way) but I find if i miss more than a couple of weeks I have to have a "pay your dues" surf which means don't expect anything, just get out there. On those days, especially if the waves are crappy, I have a minimum wave count before I can go in ... maybe 15 or so. That way, when the waves are better, my fitness and timing are better than they would be if i thought i was still a spring chicken and it will just happen. No tricks really - though i always wax right to the nose of any board i own - cos you never know when the impulse to hang 5 might hit... Oh, and i do still love a spearout.

I am just happy to be in the ocean...

I hear ya Chrispy.....sometimes I just want to go out and practise one move and get it down pat....other times I find I want to and its impossible as you waste a great proportion of the wave trying to set it up or never finding the section shape you require. That is one of the reasons I would love a decent pool to be built so I could practise stuff - I remember the old days in the pool or the pipe.....could do the same trick 25 times till you pulled it off !!

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chrispy said..

But my new one is surfing switch,and I am really starting to make some progress. Amazing how excited I get when I pull off a new move.

Buttons goes switchfoot on his first wave in the youtube clip I looked at (and posted in the Buttons thread) after I heard about his passing. I once had great little offshore peaks on the Sunny Coast with only a couple of other blokes out -- one was Simon Law and he was almost as good goofy as natural. Glad to see the art is being kept alive.

hey chrispy

i was a goofy foot

i changed to natural 3 months back

now i can switch like a bitch

swap legs surf the other way for a couple weeks and get used to it.. then go back

its so cool .. only thing i can do on a board but its one thing at least

cross stepping still working but getting there sloooowly

Switchfooting looks good especially if you do it through a turn. The cross stepping takes a bit of time though. Just keep surfing.

I've had long time out due to back injuries so i guess im gonna have to wing it on a 12ft foamy when i get back in..

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paulford said..

I've had long time out due to back injuries so i guess im gonna have to wing it on a 12ft foamy when i get back in..

You'll be right mate. Do plenty of core work, cardio, swimming and keep your weight down if you have any extra. I had nearly 2 1/2 years out of the water but the bellyboard and the 666 have kept me sane.

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Ted the Kiwi said...
I hear ya Chrispy.....sometimes I just want to go out and practise one move and get it down pat....other times I find I want to and its impossible as you waste a great proportion of the wave trying to set it up or never finding the section shape you require. That is one of the reasons I would love a decent pool to be built so I could practise stuff - I remember the old days in the pool or the pipe.....could do the same trick 25 times till you pulled it off !!

I was really starting to feel like WOTY until I read your post Ted.....I just find surfing is so hard to try and perfect tricks. Yet give me a lonely bank,or junky day where people stay at home is the perfect opportunity to have a crack at something that goes through your head.
I mind Surf all the time and I think just let me surf a wave like that perfectly once yeeeew

I just really hang out for those days when I can sneak up to a mid north coast point mid-week when its uncrowded and you get those lovely long rides where you can play round with your feet and get into the swing of things and try stuff without the worry of falling and wondering when the next one will come along......sometimes you get rewarded on the beachies but most of the time its not the case sadly

I don't get it as good as you rhino....but even closeouts I will take off switch now and see how it pans out. No matter how bad the surf is my paddle fitness is racking up

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Ted the Kiwi said..

I just really hang out for those days when I can sneak up to a mid north coast point mid-week when its uncrowded and you get those lovely long rides where you can play round with your feet and get into the swing of things and try stuff without the worry of falling and wondering when the next one will come along......sometimes you get rewarded on the beachies but most of the time its not the case sadly

Shssssssssssssssh ted, they don't exist....no waves between Newy and the Goldy