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laceys lane said..Ted the Kiwi said..He's a bit slow - most of did this 3yrs ago

funny to read that though as my mate who lives on the point at Dee Why has made mention that he never sees him out there on the 666 anymore. He used to enjoy watching him from the balcony whilst eating his breakfast
i've got another mate whos done the same thing after going smaller and smaller- given it away. he brought a diverse beau young model log too as well as going back to shorties
i knew this was going to happen because i did the same thing myself.
however i'm getting a 8'10 wave pro of jacko for a good deal for these types of swells weree are getting atm. it the easiest best way to go on the goldie otherwise i'm just not going to surf in amongst the horde
just got to pay the 666 off now

cheers
Yep. I reckon it's great to keep one in the quiver for certain days. (I have 2 and I love em.) But the great vids posted by Byron Maui of (i think) his son over in the 666 room say it all. The kid rips. But he has gone shorter and shorter and the last clip i saw, of a a dozen or more waves, he didn't once use his paddle in a meaningful way. Sure, he ripped, but I watched his paddle transitions etc and thought, geez if he didn't have to carry that thing around, he could go a foot shorter in the board, much more refined - and REALLY rip. It's almost like the good 666 guys who can really surf, evolve or revolve right back to what counts -- the best board to surf the wave the way they really want to surf it. Sometimes that means ditching the paddle.