This is from Hodaddy Facebook..
Surfing in the Olympics 2020 in Japan.
When I started ‘Switch-Foot’ in 2003,
the tagline I used in the book was ‘the other side
of surfing’, meaning - well, there is the contest
side of surfing and then there is everything else.
At the time, I felt that if you surveyed 100 surfers
there might be 2 that had ever been in a surfing
‘contest’ in their life!
I found the media hugely distorted (and still do)
towards promoting surfing as some sort of athletic sporty jock
ballsport, trying and trying to squeeze surfing into narrow
parameters - when at its core, surfing is FREE and an expression
of style, personality and funk - all things that can’t
be judged. Yet, here we are, 60 years later and surfing is
still hoodwinkled by the sporty contest scene. Contest surfing and contest
surfers make up such a minority of actual surfers, it is
surprising that we all buy into it. Are we trying to aspire
to surf like a legend, ie Kelly Slater? Really? Are we?
I know I am not and yeah while I like watching him surf
good waves, I get just as stoked seeing someone
go straight and even more stoked just hanging on the beach
with some mates.
Congratulations ‘contest surfing’ for getting to
where it is, the Olympics, but to me surfing isn't a sport, it
never has been and it never could be. But yeah, give a guy a medal
if that is why he paddles out. If he/she needs a reward, well go give
them a reward, but the reward will always be the sheer joy of
the ride. (if you can find one without any kooks!!!)