Do you know yours? I know mine, well at least one of them!!!

I will never be a cross stepper, I will always be a shuffler and today marked the culmination of every attempt to be a cross stepper.

You know, it’s funny, I have been putting in the biggest effort I could for over a month now, went to a single fin, even made a special trainer at home and then today I put the small Munoz fin back in along with the side bites. Paddled out to a nice little inside bommy at Long Reef and just went back to my old ways of a quick shuffle back, a slam of the foot on the tail pad, a half stall, crank it around, forehand or backhand, and I’m back in heaven and suddenly enjoying myself again. Even managed to sneak in a cheater 5, haven’t done one of them in months.

It was always going to be a big ask at my age.

I guess I’ll just have to be content with watching others do all the cross stepping and remember the immortal words of that great latter day philosopher, Dirty Harry.

obct - I always enjoy reading your posts!

i think my limitations come with age and knowing how much a big wipeout can hurt... I don't feel comfortable in anything too much over 4ft (8-9ft face) and don't tend to tackle sucky shallow reef breaks. I just seem to get into this hesitation thing - thinking too much about what might happen if I get it wrong... or allowing blokes to get on the inside of me and call it... It also might be because I'm caught in the career/family thing and don't get to surf these conditions too often - so when they occur, i'm well out of practice...

keep the obct posts coming...

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GPA said...

obct - I always enjoy reading your posts!



keep the obct posts coming...

second that

You don't see tommy caroll busting airs...stick to what you enjoy I reckon!!

I know this is gunna sound really soft, but I have restricted myself nowdays (except on surf trips) to surfing/supping every second day. Yes, I may miss the odd really good day but my body really thanks me for it.
AND - I am trying really really hard to listen to my body when out in the surf and when it says take this one in - I gotta take this one in !! because its the "just one more" that f##ks me for the next two days cos I always overstress the shoulder or knee or back or something else when the body has just told me its tired. Maybe I am getting a bit scared of the consequences of stupidity now cos I am having my first joint operation and to be honest I am worried about the outcome (surf wise) but I wonder if it will slow me down if and when I get back on a board afterwards or will I forget the pain a month later, at least until the next op' It scares the hell outta me not knowing what is to come but I guess I should have started listening to my body a coupla years ago, so now I just gotta suck it and see - and hopefully learn from it.

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Tux said...

You don't see tommy caroll busting airs...stick to what you enjoy I reckon!!

+1 couldnt agree more Tux.

As I've gotten older I realise that I enjoy the fun of surfing and it comes down to how I feel. It is nice if someone appreciates what you have done but that's not why I surf.

Nowadays, I'm honest and if the conditions are beyond me I'll admit to it. I don't need to prove I have balls, I know where they are.

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rune said...

As I've gotten older I realise that I enjoy the fun of surfing and it comes down to how I feel. It is nice if someone appreciates what you have done but that's not why I surf.

Nowadays, I'm honest and if the conditions are beyond me I'll admit to it. I don't need to prove I have balls, I know where they are.

Classic last line rune

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62mac said...

rune said...

As I've gotten older I realise that I enjoy the fun of surfing and it comes down to how I feel. It is nice if someone appreciates what you have done but that's not why I surf.

Nowadays, I'm honest and if the conditions are beyond me I'll admit to it. I don't need to prove I have balls, I know where they are.

Classic last line rune

Its cold over here so I bet they arnt where you think they are lol

You're right winter over here can affect your masculinity