When after this morning surf and being the not so brilliant surfer I am,
that
My knee is bleeding from an encounter with the bottom and a rock (got severely drilled)
My sinus's are still dripping water three hours after getting out (from getting drilled and held down)
My shoulders hurt so that it's an effort to butter bread for lunch (paddling back after getting drilled)
and
,,,,

I will do it all again later today...Dan that was fun....... All for that one sweet bottom turn, or reo, or float, or simply holding a late take off (something i do NOT do well).

Hope you all had a good time today as swell.

Geez I'd hate to hear about your bad days

Good on you climber,sounds like you copped
a beating

I'm hearing you there Climber. Were we star-crossed today?

I finally got out the back of Burleigh in solid conditions this morning (on a 7'6), caught one closeout then got a bomb.

Problem was, the new fins i was trialling grabbed on the bottom turn and i went over the handle-bars. My (so-called) heavy duty leggie snapped and i had a nice 250m swim in.

Not deterred, i put the old fins back in, grabbed my longboard leggie and spent 3 times as long getting back out again (got swept down to almost 2nd Ave). Had one hold down where i seriously considered undoing the leggie, it was too long for the board and dragging me back!

Anyway finally got a good clean one after paddling back down to the Point. Pulled off it and got smashed by continuous sets with 2 other guys around me. We all looked at each other and said f... this and caught foamies in.

My shoulders are still stinging from all the paddling and duckdiving. Think i'll leave it til tomorrow! Mark

I love that feeling when you bend over washing the car 4 hours after a surf and half a bucket comes out your nose

Select to expand quote

Daneli said...

I love that feeling when you bend over washing the car 4 hours after a surf and half a bucket comes out your nose

yep,much better than when your getting some loving

Well, went back again for late yesterday for more...
(Mark feel your pain...shoulders owwwww)
However
Wind dropped
Tide Dropped
Crowd dropped to 3

Had a better time, except I seem to have an issue with my left from my right,
Took off on one bomb, said to ones self left..go left...felt the board seeming flow to the right so went with it..thinking, yep just snap it left at the bottom.......opppps looked up over my right shoulder (goofy)...ohhh green room time EXCEPT I am going the wrong way.........farrrrrrrk.....all i could do was piss my self laughing as i wiped out.....
gee this sport if fun