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Ted the Kiwi said..smh said..So beautiful yet so dangerous

From what I have seen up there I would call that not too busy smh.....in fact far from it - there only seem to be 3 people paddling on to the wave that that bloke is dropping in to.........
i'm afraid that's true. when i was shortboarding i used to dread bigger swells because that meant the points were the only option.
truly the most frustrating experience around if your a touch off with your surfing, a touch out of sync with the sets.
what's maddening is watching kooks somehow score waves. even the best have **** days out there. you could get out exhausted from paddling for hard for 2 hrs and get bugger all and do the walk of shame back to your car swearing never again

even really crowded d/bar was better for wave count somedays.
then once in a while you would score so many great waves and get sucked in again. when swell hits there and its on, i rate place as cruel as golf

sorry to say be 666 ing kept me out there surfing the points.