wave size,you know the one you enjoy the most

3ft - 4ft; so a little over head high when you are trimming low. Prefer a fast-ish right hand beachy... I am more of a 'pump the wave' to get speed, then aim to hit the lip, type of surfer.

Having predominately surfed beach breaks, I find that reef breaks cause me to hesitate or otherwise have a degree of caution that (I feel), stifles my surfing... I admire guys who can charge low tide reef breaks, or big pitching lips, but after a couple of nasty dumps and some injuries along the way, I have told myself that that's not for me.

With me the size is no where near as important as the speed or hollowness.

I don't like them to be breaking fast, I'm just too slow to my feet.

Up to double head for me, reef or beachie.

Shoulder to head high beachy (A frame so I don't get slammed getting out)- fast but not stupid top to bottom with the occasional little close out forcing the cutty - reset and continue on - finishing up with one of those hundred mile an hour little 1ft reforms into the beach. Actually love any beachy that isn't too heavy - just love taking off late sometimes and having to make a left/right choice halfway down

Have you ever noticed that when you surf beachies on your own you tend to surf like or even better than Kelly Slater ? I surf so well on my own and by the time I get home the size of the surf has doubled and the cutties were bigger and I got deeper and more barrels and hangtens and the missus says "out on your own were you ?" THUD - BACK TO EARTH.

yes,A frames i like the easy paddle out also that place called greeny 2/3 ft nice long ride for me compared to the beachies i normally surf,anyway not camping this w/end now possibly back to greeny tomorrow.asea

Everytime my missus comes to the beach, or we are on a coastal holiday with a surf break, it is either on-shore, tiny, or so inconsistent that she loses interest - and so all she sees is ordinary surfing in ordinary condititions

Hard question - really depends.

I'd say somewhere in the shoulder high region - so probably similar to Doggie's double over head

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cRAZY Canuk said...

Hard question - really depends.

I'd say somewhere in the shoulder high region - so probably similar to Doggie's double over head

Yea mate shoulder high for you lol

Anything about double over head, fast hollow right handers.
I also looove massive lefts that I can smack the $hit out of. Ahh yes ,,,,, come to me winter swells

Shoulder high to a foot or so overhead. Slower take offs with faster sections down the line. Love cranking up the speed and floating over smaller close out sections. I used to love tucking into close outs, but it seems to hurt a little more now than it used to in my 20's, so now it's up and over

It actually feels like I learn more about how a wave breaks, like where I should and should not be, when I'm comfortable on it.

Doesn't really worry me if it's over reef, rock or sand. Sand can be just as good as a reef, as long as the banks are good.

Variety is the spice of life anyway!!!

Would have to say Head high A-frame beachie (little or no wind) so can go either way or so me and my goofy footed mate can both get a wave, has to be complimented by a good crew, not too heavy not too light.....just right.

Love the nice early take off on the backhand then swooping it around after the bottom turn and trying to tuck it around swinging it back to do it all again with maybe a backhand floater attempt to top it off...