I just rented this on iTunes ha ha (wish I bought it) (still might

)
I'm only 35 but as a grom I just loved evolution ,a day in the life etc etc.(me and my mates used to wag school get stoned and imagine it was us in those movies ))
To me this is what surfing and living is all about.
A true surfing legend with plenty of character
Loved every minute of it yew