MR tried to strike up a conversation with him out the back, but did not get too far.
He does not enter the local comps, but that's not saying too much.
I've had second thoughts about this.
I had a good surf yesterday arvo and after I got out, a few riders, a lot better than me, got into the water, so after I got changed, I sat on the wall and watched them for a while, only this time, I tried to concentrate on what they did the same, time after time, regardless of the wave.
There were 3 out there, and I was able to broadly place them into 3 categories:
1/ the croucher
2/ the staller
3/ the hot dogger
1/ On every wave, the croucher would crouch at every opportunity, the take off, the bottom turn, the cutback, the trim, always a crouch. He would even cross step, but only so he could find a new place to crouch.
2/ The staller always seemed to stall at the bottom of the turn, not just by throwing the right foot to the back, he would also do a kind of a soul arch and lean into the bottom turn. I can see the necessity of this, when you're too far out front and you want to get into the pocket to surf the critical part of the wave, but I even saw him doing it on a take off where he was dropping into the foam, several metres from clean water.
3/ The hot dogger, his sole ambition on every wave was to make the lip as often as possible, then drop and make the lip again. He lived for the trim and the ultimate wide stance that allowed him to stay planted while be roller coasted. A cut back to reconnect with the wave was done with a lack of soul and only as prelude to more lip service.
I then thought of my own surfing and what people on the beach would say, I'm guessing they would probably say "he rides every wave the same", and I think they would be right.
If "Surprise" is guilty of anything, it's just being, inherently more stylish that most of us.
But the style does stick out like dogs balls