Why do you surf your local spot,it may not be your local but you surf it more ofter than not.

Personally I like the fell of the place,the characters some bad but mostly fantastic,the same crew
who surf the spot have a chat relax and enjoy the waves,banter and sit there and enjoy others catching waves.

I surf my local, cause it's local.

Sometimes It's good, sometimes its **** but it is close to home and as good as anywhere nearby.

I surf my local because it's one of about 6 possible waves that isn't a 1km long close out in Perth metro. That and the people are fairly chilled, and it's a good fun wave.

me i have a few breaks around me,all are bank dependant.....maybe

i surf them a bit like mac. The crew around here are awesome,from 6yo to 100yo we are all having fun and looking out for each other
Unlike mac our breaks are not filled with ****wits and endless learners trying to get their aussie surfing experience....

We do have a saying up here though,its always two outta three...wind and swell is perfect...banks are farked.....swell and banks are perfect ,wind is farked...yep you get it,and we love it

everyone else will lie and post it here

Its bigger than some waves closer, has a bit of raw grrrr about it and there are two softer waves nearby that get LOTS of people who like HP surfing or less grunt, and two hard hitting barrels for guys who like ledges of death. Result, the crowd isn't that bad. There is also another wave within paddling distance that is half again as big and is super powerful, so that's an escape too if the crowds get heavy come holiday time. Unfortunately the last wave requires reasonably specialised equipment so one of the waves is inadequately catered for. One of the locals didn't talk to me for five years until I took a six foot set on the head for him. Best mates now.

The lineup is reasonably tricky, open ocean with currents and a couple of shifty peaks, so time there is rewarded and Perthies heading south don't really have the equipment or time in the water to really hassle. There is a bunch of local guys who have the place dialled and take in turns - very gentlemanly and relaxed - and get all the set waves. Sometimes it's better on the inside peak, wallier with the odd barrel. But the outside peak has a fun fun drop, although not too critical.

Time wise, it is just as close as anything for me.

Darren still barely acknowledges despite surfing there for the last 20 years though.

Ultimately, it's a relatively big uncrowded wave.

Just coz I like it mate & I know the joint inside out but there is a couple of other places that aren't too foul to have a crack at of course

cos I like beach breaks. the variety

I also like my local point depending on my mood etc.


the place where I live is awesome. point and beach breaks a short walk if you want or its holiday season and parks are hard to get

a ck and creek mouth to train or play.

and a handy spot to come in on to finish a dw run.

the alley provides the most consist point wave on the coast because it can handle a wider variety of conditions.

however it pays that price for not or rarely be a true class wave


also not to far away for lm, d bar etc when they are good.

I wouldn't live anywhere else.

suits my lifestyle to a t

Heaps of good spots around here but there's one particular spot I go to more than others because it's the closest ( 2-3min drive) and it's often got the best banks. Some good reefs too.

Select to expand quote

smh said..
Heaps of good spots around here but there's one particular spot I go to more than others because it's the closest ( 2-3min drive) and it's often got the best banks. Some good reefs too.

Lucky man

Local reef I go to is a lot less crowded than the other reefs entry and exit is alos trickier and its hard to see so most crew don't bother the ones that do are all regular so its quite cordial except for easter when it can turn into a **** fight.....my local local is a beachie and only really starts to work on a high tide with a bit of swell...but the beachie jacks super hard and at 3 foot is heavier than most of the reefs at 6 foot....I dunno why but these are the two I like best

My local is a little sand covered reef break that is a nightmare to get to. Either a fairly long walk in from a known spot or a difficult entry from a lesser know road so its generally fairly crowd friendly (although that has started to change recently ).

Its my local because regardless of how big or small, clean or junky, I always have a good crack there with some select mates. I'll probably jinx it now, but never had a bad surf there.

I like surfing my local as its where i grew up and learnt to surf,its where i hung out with all my mates from sunrise to sunset every weekend putting **** on each other, chasing girls and running amok,Ive moved from there but still consider it my local,lived where i am now for 23 years and consider it my local beach but not my 'local' if that makes sense.Plus if your grandparents arnt buried in the local cemetery your a blow in

i surf my local because it reminds me of playing in my backyard as a kid, you know it inside out.

surfing your local is not about best waves its about life itself. you have the best memories of best waves ,surfing with mates, sunny days with glassy swells.
my hands still tremble on good days removing my board from the board bag looking at the swell while fumbling zinc
wax and rashie.
walking up the beach while looking at a bench where you nailed a hottie or where conversation about the surf improving on the tide
stories of waves, mates waves or that hottie story thats getting better every time you tell it.
as a lad it was the place you never watch your back and someone has always got it.
its the place my ashes will go.

Chrispys home break this week.

^^vinderloo will do that

When we first came to the area we lived about 5 mins drive away. I soon realized we bought in the wrong area considering I was popping in to my local pretty much daily. So sold up & built about 5 mins walk away. You very rarely get a little barrel, but you often get a big long wall, racing through the middle section or one that your cutting back more. Like everywhere else it has its different moods, but never really closes out. Even when people say its closing out, it has a good length of racy wall before you hit a fun predictable middle section to float or bail over. It is affected by sand, but not much which is great. You can basically check the wind direction & know its going to be at least decent. And if you've got a quiver to cover bigger or onshore days down to when its small, your pretty much guaranteed a good time

My childhood local is 700kms North. I surfed it again pretty good for the first in years about three years ago. A bunch of young boogers made all sorts of rude comments to me. The crowd who surf there have definitely changed as, for whatever reason, it rarely breaks like it once did. Anyway, I found my bubbles and got lots of waves and the boogers were definitely bummed I could take off pretty much where they were. Their two stand up mates didn't want a bar of it because the first section barrels pretty hard. The reality is the bubbles let you in really easily and the barrel section is so short that it's over by the time you realise you are in a barrel - you'd have to be useless to stuff it up. But I wasn't telling them that.

The wave hardly breaks anymore but I still check it every time I am in my home town as its where I realised I like reefs and bigger waves. It where I got worded up by older surfers and schooled in the idea of when it's your turn you go, or don't get in line. Groms had it way harder 30 years ago I reckon.

I still consider myself a local there although I rarely know anyone in the lineup and haven't lived in the town for 22 years.

I'm just a blow in always have been always will be

I lived an hour away from the beach as a 13 years old and for 10 bucks return plus a dollar for your board my mate and I surfed Greenmount from morning to night,went to KFC where the Sun House store is today,eat the KFC on the 6 pm bus back home,Greyhound was the bus line.I live 4 mins from the beach Miami was a member of the club which was shortboard of course was a member for about 5 years won sfa had a hell of a time.Turned my attention to longboarding about 37 years ago,first board was a Warren Cornish 8 footer until some guy told me I wasn't surfing a longboard wtf sold it and purchased my very first Mctavish oh the boards alone the way.Best thing I've ever got involved in love it.So why do I favour the southern points well theres alot of fun and history for me there.Still a blow in like most,but the locals love me

Select to expand quote

Cobra said..
i surf my local because it reminds me of playing in my backyard as a kid, you know it inside out.

surfing your local is not about best waves its about life itself. you have the best memories of best waves ,surfing with mates, sunny days with glassy swells.
my hands still tremble on good days removing my board from the board bag looking at the swell while fumbling zinc
wax and rashie.
walking up the beach while looking at a bench where you nailed a hottie or where conversation about the surf improving on the tide
stories of waves, mates waves or that hottie story thats getting better every time you tell it.
as a lad it was the place you never watch your back and someone has always got it.
its the place my ashes will go.

Cobra,

Couldn't have put it any better.

The only time you had to watch your back was when a car full of the older crew pulled up looking to trash a grommie or two.
For sure some of the BEST times of my life, and I'll remember them till I am very old and very grey, still telling stories and still sitting on that bench.

Select to expand quote

Locky24 said..

Cobra said..
i surf my local because it reminds me of playing in my backyard as a kid, you know it inside out.

surfing your local is not about best waves its about life itself. you have the best memories of best waves ,surfing with mates, sunny days with glassy swells.
my hands still tremble on good days removing my board from the board bag looking at the swell while fumbling zinc
wax and rashie.
walking up the beach while looking at a bench where you nailed a hottie or where conversation about the surf improving on the tide
stories of waves, mates waves or that hottie story thats getting better every time you tell it.
as a lad it was the place you never watch your back and someone has always got it.
its the place my ashes will go.

Cobra,

Couldn't have put it any better.

The only time you had to watch your back was when a car full of the older crew pulled up looking to trash a grommie or two.
For sure some of the BEST times of my life, and I'll remember them till I am very old and very grey, still telling stories and still sitting on that bench.

Great read chats enjoyed both posts.

Select to expand quote

Macaha said..
I'm just a blow in always have been always will be

I lived an hour away from the beach as a 13 years old and for 10 bucks return plus a dollar for your board my mate and I surfed Greenmount from morning to night,went to KFC where the Sun House store is today,eat the KFC on the 6 pm bus back home,Greyhound was the bus line.I live 4 mins from the beach Miami was a member of the club which was shortboard of course was a member for about 5 years won sfa had a hell of a time.Turned my attention to longboarding about 37 years ago,first board was a Warren Cornish 8 footer until some guy told me I wasn't surfing a longboard wtf sold it and purchased my very first Mctavish oh the boards alone the way.Best thing I've ever got involved in love it.So why do I favour the southern points well theres alot of fun and history for me there.Still a blow in like most,but the locals love me

Yeah I love you big boy

Select to expand quote

Macaha said..
I'm just a blow in always have been always will be

I lived an hour away from the beach as a 13 years old and for 10 bucks return plus a dollar for your board my mate and I surfed Greenmount from morning to night,went to KFC where the Sun House store is today,eat the KFC on the 6 pm bus back home,Greyhound was the bus line.I live 4 mins from the beach Miami was a member of the club which was shortboard of course was a member for about 5 years won sfa had a hell of a time.Turned my attention to longboarding about 37 years ago,first board was a Warren Cornish 8 footer until some guy told me I wasn't surfing a longboard wtf sold it and purchased my very first Mctavish oh the boards alone the way.Best thing I've ever got involved in love it.So why do I favour the southern points well theres alot of fun and history for me there.Still a blow in like most,but the locals love me

mac what was you local surf shop back then

Select to expand quote

Macaha said..
Chrispys home break this week.

thats what happens when i see a shark

Select to expand quote

chrispy said..

Macaha said..
Chrispys home break this week.

thats what happens when i see a shark

Select to expand quote

Cobra said..

Macaha said..
I'm just a blow in always have been always will be

I lived an hour away from the beach as a 13 years old and for 10 bucks return plus a dollar for your board my mate and I surfed Greenmount from morning to night,went to KFC where the Sun House store is today,eat the KFC on the 6 pm bus back home,Greyhound was the bus line.I live 4 mins from the beach Miami was a member of the club which was shortboard of course was a member for about 5 years won sfa had a hell of a time.Turned my attention to longboarding about 37 years ago,first board was a Warren Cornish 8 footer until some guy told me I wasn't surfing a longboard wtf sold it and purchased my very first Mctavish oh the boards alone the way.Best thing I've ever got involved in love it.So why do I favour the southern points well theres alot of fun and history for me there.Still a blow in like most,but the locals love me

mac what was you local surf shop back then

Miami surf designs mate,kirra surf when it was a real surf shop and later dukes longboards.But way back Lacey and his mates would take me up the hill to Nicks house at Mt Woodgee for custom shortboards.