How important is it in your life? Talking last night to an old mate some here would know, he said he was over the surf seen where he lived so moved a little south, I was shocked when he said he had only surfed 20 times in 2 years not the guy I knew. He is getting a board made which he hopes will kick him along again, I said good luck with that it hasn't worked for me and he expects the same, crowds and a whole new generation of surfers many of the old crew have given up.

It does get more frustrating the older you get. Crowds worse an greedy young groms with 0 surf manners. Used to do trips north surfing with an absolute frother and he ripped; he doesn't even seem to surf these days

It's all in the mind, keep your mind and body as healthy as possible, ride boards that suit your ability/ailments, keep looking forward to your next surf and your next surf will be fun. Can't be worrying about crowds and things that are beyond our control

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onefin said..
It's all in the mind, keep your mind and body as healthy as possible, ride boards that suit your ability/ailments, keep looking forward to your next surf and your next surf will be fun. Can't be worrying about crowds and things that are beyond our control

Well said

You don't get old and stop surfing. You stop surfing and get old!!
Surfing is the only thing that keeps me young

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onefin said..
It's all in the mind, keep your mind and body as healthy as possible, ride boards that suit your ability/ailments, keep looking forward to your next surf and your next surf will be fun. Can't be worrying about crowds and things that are beyond our control

Agree. You have to work at it. Work on injuries. Work around injuries

I ve got no time for blokes that just let themselfs go to ruin and whinge about it
Use it or lose it.
Your body and health are your biggest assests

It means a hell of a lot to me. After a pretty horrendous work injury 11 years ago, thinking I'd never surf again and years out of the water I'm like a bloody frothing grommet Always pumped for my next surf.
Great thing is for a pass time which is quite selfish at times it hasn't only enriched my life but my young family as well. We've taken so many holidays, short getaways, road trips, days down the coast all because of surfing. Priceless memories and good times.

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Toobz said..
It means a hell of a lot to me. After a pretty horrendous work injury 11 years ago, thinking I'd never surf again and years out of the water I'm like a bloody frothing grommet Always pumped for my next surf.
Great thing is for a pass time which is quite selfish at times it hasn't only enriched my life but my young family as well. We've taken so many holidays, short getaways, road trips, days down the coast all because of surfing. Priceless memories and good times.

Yeh I'm sorta kinda in this boat as well for much the same reason ....

Always looking forward to getting wet no matter if it be surfing or swimming ,and super thankful I'm able to

Damn i keep boards in strategic parts of the house that when I see them i feel happy

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onefin said..
It's all in the mind, keep your mind and body as healthy as possible, ride boards that suit your ability/ailments, keep looking forward to your next surf and your next surf will be fun. Can't be worrying about crowds and things that are beyond our control

Plus this is gold right here

Yoga
Day trips
Happy healthy chrispy

Also bender has the right thinking, and its true

It's hard when life gets busy with work and kids and life in general.
Surfing isn't a sport to schedule in at 5.30 - 6.30 pm.
It's much easier when you live a close distance to a good surf beach but some people have to drive a distance there are back and becomes hard to keep motivated when its not so good.
For me I'm now working from home its easier.
Some of my friends have had more flexible schedules and now I can plan some work around good conditions.
We all have family and friends that have had their lives shortened which is the best reminder to make the most of every day.
Peace out

Surfing different boards helps. Anything in the ocean relaxes even a body surf. And a yearly surf trip of nothing but surfing for at least at week is enough to rejuvenate the soul

I've always tried to arrange my life around surfing. Its dictated my work & where I live in life. I'm 47 now, more prone to injury & the skin cancers have become more serious with a large, but not deep coz it was caught early malanoma cut out a couple of months ago. Although it is harder to get motivated when its friggin cold, crowded, windy or really not so good. I try & get out at least 3 or 4 times a week. I've been surfing more performance based shortboards this year & havn't been on the longboard since last summer. Opting for wide flat rockered shortboards about 35-38 L instead. Have a DHD Mick Fanning Ducks Nutz 6'2 I bought off gumtree for $200 thats my current favourite board at the moment for overhead & sucky'er waves. It could of been a one board quiver for a Bali trip a couple of weeks ago, made a big mistake taking out other boards a couple of times which dropped my wave count coz I didn't have confidence in making the sucky takeoff's on my Hypto rip.

I think having a diverse quiver adds a spark to your motivational levels wanting to try different boards with different fin setups. I very rarely take less than 2 or 3 boards to the beach. Sometimes coz I'm not sure on conditions & sometimes coz I think I might have to swap out to a board thats easier to paddle when I'm getting tired or it starts getting crowded. But at the end of the day. Of course, having a quiver of like 4 shortboards a longboard & even a 666 is gonna offer you the opportunity to get out & have fun in a more diverse range of waves.

Minimum quiver imo, small wave shortboard (fat waves), small wave shortboard (sucky waves), stepup (6'6'-6'8 stronger glass) & a gun (for me 7 foot reasonably heavy glass but you could go longer np).... plus a longboard.

Personally I have
5'10 low rocker/wide for small/fat
6'0 low rocker wide for small/less fat
6'4 low rocker 21.5 x 2 3/4 longboard alternative
6'4 x 20 1/4 x 2.5 med rocker
6'4 x 19 x 2.5 more rocker
6'6 indo stepup shape
7'0 gun
9'1 Tolhurst longboard
8'10 666

They all get used more or less according to the season (wave type). Have a few others, but they're the main boards I surf atm.

Still frothing to try more performance shape shortboards & might buy a Dylan board in Bali next Oct coz they look sexy.
Would love something like a 12 foot munoz I can sit 1/2 a mile out to sea & be up on my feet riding before anyone has even seen the ripple rolling in

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MickPC said..
I've always tried to arrange my life around surfing. Its dictated my work & where I live in life. I'm 47 now, more prone to injury & the skin cancers have become more serious with a large, but not deep coz it was caught early malanoma cut out a couple of months ago. Although it is harder to get motivated when its friggin cold, crowded, windy or really not so good. I try & get out at least 3 or 4 times a week. I've been surfing more performance based shortboards this year & havn't been on the longboard since last summer. Opting for wide flat rockered shortboards about 35-38 L instead. Have a DHD Mick Fanning Ducks Nutz 6'2 I bought off gumtree for $200 thats my current favourite board at the moment for overhead & sucky'er waves. It could of been a one board quiver for a Bali trip a couple of weeks ago, made a big mistake taking out other boards a couple of times which dropped my wave count coz I didn't have confidence in making the sucky takeoff's on my Hypto rip.

I think having a diverse quiver adds a spark to your motivational levels wanting to try different boards with different fin setups. I very rarely take less than 2 or 3 boards to the beach. Sometimes coz I'm not sure on conditions & sometimes coz I think I might have to swap out to a board thats easier to paddle when I'm getting tired or it starts getting crowded. But at the end of the day. Of course, having a quiver of like 4 shortboards a longboard & even a 666 is gonna offer you the opportunity to get out & have fun in a more diverse range of waves.

Minimum quiver imo, small wave shortboard (fat waves), small wave shortboard (sucky waves), stepup (6'6'-6'8 stronger glass) & a gun (for me 7 foot reasonably heavy glass but you could go longer np).... plus a longboard.

Personally I have
5'10 low rocker/wide for small/fat
6'0 low rocker wide for small/less fat
6'4 low rocker 21.5 x 2 3/4 longboard alternative
6'4 x 20 1/4 x 2.5 med rocker
6'4 x 19 x 2.5 more rocker
6'6 indo stepup shape
7'0 gun
9'1 Tolhurst longboard
8'10 666

They all get used more or less according to the season (wave type). Have a few others, but they're the main boards I surf atm.

Still frothing to try more performance shape shortboards & might buy a Dylan board in Bali next Oct coz they look sexy.
Would love something like a 12 foot munoz I can sit 1/2 a mile out to sea & be up on my feet riding before anyone has even seen the ripple rolling in

Bloody spring chicken

This is so funny, did some of you Zen blokes read these philosophy's on drink coasters.

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Cobra said..
This is so funny, did some of you Zen blokes read these philosophy's on drink coasters.

Why would it matter where someone reads if it makes someone happy ?

Chrispy you know it's just blah blah. Well ok I'll play the game. My zen thoughts are. surfers are born just like fishermen. There that's better than , use it or lose it. I'm sure that terminology is used in aged care units. ;) or brothels I can't remember I'm old.

I get all my inspirational quotes from those Wicked campers.




Google the last line if you don't know it.