This isn't limited to Longboards or Shortboards...

My observations; Sporadic;
1997 - surfing in Lombok (kinda near Bali) with George & Froggie, and Andrew made the comment to me, "who do think surfs better, George or Froggie...?". I said "George surfs better, nice and smooth, beautiful to watch, but Froggie would win a contest because he goes harder"... In a way, it was Joel Tudor v's Adriano de Souza. Adriano surfs unreal, but I would prefer to observe 1 hour of Joel's surfing... (*1)

*1 - I now realise that at that moment in my life, I was actually a Longboarder, trapped within a mega-advertising wheel that wanted everyone to ride short boards...

*Cut - see below...

End of April '13 - Today, I saw a hot young Rip Curl rider surfing really well... 2 out 3 waves, he was surfing like aggressive Froggie (above), but once in a while he would surf like Soul "George", with the fluid powerful style of MP & MR, with full-on Joel T cruise thrown in, on a shortboard... I was continually disappointed when he went hard, but my face light up like a Guy Fawkes Night when he laid down is smooth moves!

Plus Yesterday - another mate rides a 7'2 Brownie & a 7'8 Brownie. He rides them well, and lends them out for a few waves, to guys on 6'2's... I see their faces light up... Yet, the guy on the 7 footers is also a natural Longboarder, who hasn't found the right Longboard yet... He has a 9'6 Brownie Log which is just way too much for him... Needs a refined 9'1 to 9'3... Less volume, more rocker, narrower, etc...

I'm happy that I now realise that I'm a Longboarder.


(next time, in 50 words or less... 4#NewScotty)

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*Cut/paste;

Fast Forward to circa Easter 2013 - I think the head of Quiksilver# (Au) needs to pull his head in when he surfs (short boarder with a moderate grudge... including a grudge against Longboards..). He surfs really well, and he's previously been an elite VFL/AFL player. His big brother surfs equally well, and hosts a few things on Foxtel (was an even more elite AFL player, picking a much deserved Brownlow in '88).... '08 though '12, a reasonably good display of quality Longboards at Quicksilver Torquay... last couple of times I looked... no Longboards... This 50 year old man# needs to chill out and spend some time on a Longboard, but might even be partially responsible (*2) for the banishment of Longboards from the Q-Torquay Boardroom...
*2 - at this stage this is unproven, just suspected...