This is one of my favourite longboard waves. And is the joint I recently dragged the wrong board out to when I should have had my gun out. I stole this from Swellnet cause I don't know how to embed links from my phone.

I know a lot of people would think that's not a longboard wave, but it is. Honest. And lots of longboards do surf it solid as the take off lets you in before standing up. Maybe this day wasn't quite so longboard friendly.

Chrispy, keen mate?

I would definitely be riding a longer board out there but not a long board But to be honest its on the other side of my comfort zone. If that was the biggest wave of day perhaps and I mean perhaps - lots of things would need to be going well for me - but if that was just the sets then probably not !

No farkin wonder you thought snapper and the east coast was soft..

If you ride shortboards and longboards I doubt anyone would pick their longboard to surf that,but a nice 7'0 rounded pin would be my choice,whats the paddle out like ,is there a channel or is it a random setup,id hate to be copping 4or5 of them on the head

Looks like pipe in reverse.

I use to surf 7'2"s in that sort of thing, but now would be looking for my 8'0". And the 9'6" longboard gun I am planning is aimed at precisely that sort of thing and a little bigger.

There is a half decent channel for paddling out, but the current drags you north so you are heading into the middle of the peak. If you don't get out the back it is quite possible to get a long, drawn out wash through to either be spat out on the left, or, more likely, washed into the inside ledge where you have to walk back out to the jump off.

There's a shelf in front of the jump off that can close out when it's solid. My best effort was five wash throughs before giving up trying to get out. The worst thing about that day was a mate slid out pretty easily in front of me and was catching waves while I was getting belted.

This is the jump off from a different angle on a a day not much smaller than the photo despite this pic making it look significantly smaller. Check out the guy taking off on the left in the background. He gives the real size. Only ten or so of us hit it this morning. This was during one of the Margies Masters swells.

Is that first pic at margerats,i surfed there couple of years ago,it was only about 4-5ft but it has plenty of power,i was mainly surfing the right,while way out to the left was this solid left breaking at about 8' with a long paddle over a deep and sketchy looking channel,I was talking to a local bloke who was out there and he said "yeah it was good fun except for a couple of sharks chasing the salmon",was very happy with where i surfed

More often then not its a bit of a burger. Pretty rare that is like the photo. Fun wave though.

Geez Drip..you are Gonad Man..That wave is out of my comfort zone well and truly...but then I've got age as an excuse

Great post..

Is that Yallingup main break...surfed there heaps growing up and still have a few scars to prove it...we hardly ever went right cause you would get flogged trying to make it back out.....crazy shorebreak on the inside for bodysurfing too...double overhead whompers onto 6 inches of sand on a good day

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Tux said..
Is that Yallingup main break...surfed there heaps growing up and still have a few scars to prove it...we hardly ever went right cause you would get flogged trying to make it back out.....crazy shorebreak on the inside for bodysurfing too...double overhead whompers onto 6 inches of sand on a good day

Yep. Yals. The right is the main wave surfed when it has size, even though the flogging on the inside can be tedious (see my post on pg182 in "Where did you surf" when someone burned me on a really solid wave).

And I sort of agree with it being a burger when small, but with any size on it Yals has some serious water behind it. It's not top to bottom like some waves, but it barrels and is really thick. It tries to drown you rather than snap you. That sort of long underwater hold down.

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thedrip said..
This is one of my favourite longboard waves. And is the joint I recently dragged the wrong board out to when I should have had my gun out. I stole this from Swellnet cause I don't know how to embed links from my phone.

I know a lot of people would think that's not a longboard wave, but it is. Honest. And lots of longboards do surf it solid as the take off lets you in before standing up. Maybe this day wasn't quite so longboard friendly.

Chrispy, keen mate?

yeh for sure










for sure i will make sure my camera is charged.....and i will get some great pics of you mate

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chrispy said..

thedrip said..
This is one of my favourite longboard waves. And is the joint I recently dragged the wrong board out to when I should have had my gun out. I stole this from Swellnet cause I don't know how to embed links from my phone.

I know a lot of people would think that's not a longboard wave, but it is. Honest. And lots of longboards do surf it solid as the take off lets you in before standing up. Maybe this day wasn't quite so longboard friendly.

Chrispy, keen mate?

yeh for sure










for sure i will make sure my camera is charged.....and i will get some great pics of you mate

Yeah f*** that!!!!

soft east coast boys- proud to be one when I see that


chances are that guys not a midget either

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laceys lane said..



chances are that guys not a midget either

What like you

Mac have you ever surfed LM that big,
I say Drip 1-0

That is a great pic, I've seen it before or one a lot like it. Pic I'm thinking of was like Jan or Feb after a cyclone up North sent a NW swell down. Taj has video of epic footage of the swell on his youtube channel of another place with freak rights barrelling off its nut on a beach that usually has lefts further down. That story I told about my biggest left barrel was as clean as that pic up top but not quite as big

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Cobra said...

laceys lane said..



chances are that guys not a midget either

What like you

Have you had a look at your self avatar lately

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Cobra said..
Mac have you ever surfed LM that big,
I say Drip 1-0

dickhead nil

saw tom wegener surf sunshine beach that big and hollow one june day, easily handled it on a crusader,but he a man of talent and gonads

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laceys lane said..

Cobra said...

laceys lane said..



chances are that guys not a midget either

What like you

Have you had a look at your self avatar lately