Sometimes Longboard Waves Aren't

> 10 years ago
Reply
Register to post, see what you've read, and subscribe to topics.
thedrip
thedrip
WA
2355 posts
WA, 2355 posts
6 Aug 2015 6:19pm
This is one of my favourite longboard waves. And is the joint I recently dragged the wrong board out to when I should have had my gun out. I stole this from Swellnet cause I don't know how to embed links from my phone.

I know a lot of people would think that's not a longboard wave, but it is. Honest. And lots of longboards do surf it solid as the take off lets you in before standing up. Maybe this day wasn't quite so longboard friendly.

Chrispy, keen mate?



Ted the Kiwi
Ted the Kiwi
NSW
14256 posts
NSW, 14256 posts
6 Aug 2015 8:26pm
I would definitely be riding a longer board out there but not a long board But to be honest its on the other side of my comfort zone. If that was the biggest wave of day perhaps and I mean perhaps - lots of things would need to be going well for me - but if that was just the sets then probably not !
SP
SP
10982 posts
SP SP
10982 posts
6 Aug 2015 6:40pm
No farkin wonder you thought snapper and the east coast was soft..

Ricardo1709
Ricardo1709
NSW
1302 posts
NSW, 1302 posts
6 Aug 2015 8:54pm
If you ride shortboards and longboards I doubt anyone would pick their longboard to surf that,but a nice 7'0 rounded pin would be my choice,whats the paddle out like ,is there a channel or is it a random setup,id hate to be copping 4or5 of them on the head
smh
smh
NSW
7269 posts
smh smh
NSW, 7269 posts
6 Aug 2015 9:21pm
Looks like pipe in reverse.
thedrip
thedrip
WA
2355 posts
WA, 2355 posts
6 Aug 2015 7:26pm
I use to surf 7'2"s in that sort of thing, but now would be looking for my 8'0". And the 9'6" longboard gun I am planning is aimed at precisely that sort of thing and a little bigger.

There is a half decent channel for paddling out, but the current drags you north so you are heading into the middle of the peak. If you don't get out the back it is quite possible to get a long, drawn out wash through to either be spat out on the left, or, more likely, washed into the inside ledge where you have to walk back out to the jump off.

There's a shelf in front of the jump off that can close out when it's solid. My best effort was five wash throughs before giving up trying to get out. The worst thing about that day was a mate slid out pretty easily in front of me and was catching waves while I was getting belted.

This is the jump off from a different angle on a a day not much smaller than the photo despite this pic making it look significantly smaller. Check out the guy taking off on the left in the background. He gives the real size. Only ten or so of us hit it this morning. This was during one of the Margies Masters swells.



Ricardo1709
Ricardo1709
NSW
1302 posts
NSW, 1302 posts
6 Aug 2015 9:40pm
Is that first pic at margerats,i surfed there couple of years ago,it was only about 4-5ft but it has plenty of power,i was mainly surfing the right,while way out to the left was this solid left breaking at about 8' with a long paddle over a deep and sketchy looking channel,I was talking to a local bloke who was out there and he said "yeah it was good fun except for a couple of sharks chasing the salmon",was very happy with where i surfed
Ctngoodvibes
Ctngoodvibes
WA
1404 posts
WA, 1404 posts
7 Aug 2015 2:24am
More often then not its a bit of a burger. Pretty rare that is like the photo. Fun wave though.
surfbroker
surfbroker
NSW
1489 posts
NSW, 1489 posts
7 Aug 2015 8:21am
Geez Drip..you are Gonad Man..That wave is out of my comfort zone well and truly...but then I've got age as an excuse

Great post..
Tux
Tux
VIC
3829 posts
Tux Tux
VIC, 3829 posts
7 Aug 2015 8:39am
Is that Yallingup main break...surfed there heaps growing up and still have a few scars to prove it...we hardly ever went right cause you would get flogged trying to make it back out.....crazy shorebreak on the inside for bodysurfing too...double overhead whompers onto 6 inches of sand on a good day
thedrip
thedrip
WA
2355 posts
WA, 2355 posts
7 Aug 2015 3:39pm
Tux said..
Is that Yallingup main break...surfed there heaps growing up and still have a few scars to prove it...we hardly ever went right cause you would get flogged trying to make it back out.....crazy shorebreak on the inside for bodysurfing too...double overhead whompers onto 6 inches of sand on a good day


Yep. Yals. The right is the main wave surfed when it has size, even though the flogging on the inside can be tedious (see my post on pg182 in "Where did you surf" when someone burned me on a really solid wave).

And I sort of agree with it being a burger when small, but with any size on it Yals has some serious water behind it. It's not top to bottom like some waves, but it barrels and is really thick. It tries to drown you rather than snap you. That sort of long underwater hold down.
chrispy
chrispy
WA
9675 posts
WA, 9675 posts
7 Aug 2015 6:44pm
thedrip said..
This is one of my favourite longboard waves. And is the joint I recently dragged the wrong board out to when I should have had my gun out. I stole this from Swellnet cause I don't know how to embed links from my phone.

I know a lot of people would think that's not a longboard wave, but it is. Honest. And lots of longboards do surf it solid as the take off lets you in before standing up. Maybe this day wasn't quite so longboard friendly.

Chrispy, keen mate?





yeh for sure










for sure i will make sure my camera is charged.....and i will get some great pics of you mate
vanders1
vanders1
QLD
3809 posts
QLD, 3809 posts
7 Aug 2015 9:05pm
chrispy said..

thedrip said..
This is one of my favourite longboard waves. And is the joint I recently dragged the wrong board out to when I should have had my gun out. I stole this from Swellnet cause I don't know how to embed links from my phone.

I know a lot of people would think that's not a longboard wave, but it is. Honest. And lots of longboards do surf it solid as the take off lets you in before standing up. Maybe this day wasn't quite so longboard friendly.

Chrispy, keen mate?






yeh for sure










for sure i will make sure my camera is charged.....and i will get some great pics of you mate


Yeah f*** that!!!!
laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
7 Aug 2015 9:35pm
soft east coast boys- proud to be one when I see that


chances are that guys not a midget either
Cobra
Cobra
9106 posts
9106 posts
7 Aug 2015 8:29pm
laceys lane said..



chances are that guys not a midget either


What like you
Cobra
Cobra
9106 posts
9106 posts
7 Aug 2015 8:48pm
Mac have you ever surfed LM that big,
I say Drip 1-0
MickPC
MickPC
8266 posts
8266 posts
8 Aug 2015 10:59am
That is a great pic, I've seen it before or one a lot like it. Pic I'm thinking of was like Jan or Feb after a cyclone up North sent a NW swell down. Taj has video of epic footage of the swell on his youtube channel of another place with freak rights barrelling off its nut on a beach that usually has lefts further down. That story I told about my biggest left barrel was as clean as that pic up top but not quite as big
laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
8 Aug 2015 1:37pm
Cobra said...
laceys lane said..



chances are that guys not a midget either


What like you


Have you had a look at your self avatar lately
Macaha
Macaha
QLD
21982 posts
QLD, 21982 posts
8 Aug 2015 1:41pm
Cobra said..
Mac have you ever surfed LM that big,
I say Drip 1-0



dickhead nil
firstpoint
firstpoint
QLD
613 posts
QLD, 613 posts
8 Aug 2015 3:00pm
saw tom wegener surf sunshine beach that big and hollow one june day, easily handled it on a crusader,but he a man of talent and gonads
Cobra
Cobra
9106 posts
9106 posts
8 Aug 2015 2:14pm
laceys lane said..

Cobra said...

laceys lane said..



chances are that guys not a midget either



What like you



Have you had a look at your self avatar lately


Please Register, or first...
Topics Subscribe Reply

Return To Classic site 😭
Or... let us know if a problem, so we can tweak! 😅