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riverider said..
This ones ok to, gota wonder how many guys aren't getting any waves here.
Thats exactly the sort of statement I think about every time I go to the beach RR. If its a slow swell with not many coming in I do the quick math and work out if its worth it. If not I go elsewhere or do something else. I need to be efficient with my time !!
Every time I see the crowd at Pipe - I think - why the farrrrk would you bother. Yes it would be nice to get a couple of good ones but you weigh up all the factors - time to wait for a wave, probability of getting smashed, probability of getting run over after you get smashed, chances of getting killed by a clean up set over 3rd reef (actually if that is above 1% I am not even considering it), chances of getting a wave to yourself without getting burnt, chances of spending so much time focussing on your takeoff that you do not see the bloke backdooring you............jeepers the list goes on and on why I would not surf that place. But I tell ya one day in late March early April when its 4ft and most of the big boys have had there fix you for the season you will find me out there for a quick session at first light