first time on my log today and oh what fun it was

first few i realised you cant exactly turn these beautiful creations the way you do on a more h/p board...then it kicked in,here comes a simgrodo description

waves were waist heigh and fat,so paddle into to these sluggish things that most boards cant catch,unless your asea

got up to my feet and let the wave take me. foot on the tail and instead off a sharp turn it was more guide it into the direction i wanted and let the wave bring it to where you want. take a step or two forward too get it gliding and what a feeling. step back and cut back to the white stuff,few steps forward again and she picks up speed and we do it all again till we almost get to the nose

i was so close to getting my dream off being on the nose,yet i did spend most of that time within 6 inches of doing it

this is probably the most fun i had in any waves and it was mediocre at best

i like to smash things generally,yet this is a art that i want to conquer,so peaceful,so smooth and so much farking fun

i just cant get enough of this long board art of surfing......it is the best