hahahha...
**** you....

I was thinking of him as i typed the comment...

And thr Brazil bloke Phil Ras.....
He is one of the few bloke that is the exception to the rule but he is the exception and not the rule. Not many can or do surf like that..
And to some that probably isn't even good surfing... Just a bunch of circus tricks...
Each to own is the point...
Surf how you want, have FUN and **** what people think...
As for one board??? Yeah i was talking Long boards.
The old boards are nothing like today's boards, just have a look at any old Mal comp compared to a Modern Traditional comp, completely different . Not only the surfing but the boards bare little resemblance.
Different rails, concave / vee , plan shape, rails, weight, thickness, width, materials the list goes on, besides being over 9ft they have bugger all in common. Doesn't mean it isn't fun to pull it out and take it for a wave every now and then..
Not to mention the improvements in technique make today's surfing so different from the old days / boards, they were surfed the way they were because it's the way to surf them. Drop knee turns, trimming etc came out of that was just how you had to surf them. You don't see many people hanging heels on an old mal for a reason..
And i didn't say you should keep a board for 15 years but i said you can get a board (longboard) that can be surfed in 99% of conditions and it will make bugger all difference to your enjoyment. Maybe that is just my personal experience and the boards i like.
It doesn't mean that owning a log or something different is a bad thing and there wont be days that are more suited to a particular board but my all rounder could be surfed 95% of the time in anything from ankle to over head, just a matter of different fins, doesn't mean i am going to surf a LB 95% off the time though just that it could and it would do the job without any problems.