Nice watch.

www.redbull.com/int-en/the-ripple-effect-lance-knight-discovers-lance-s-right

Thanks Ted that was great

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Ted the Kiwi said...
Nice watch.

www.redbull.com/int-en/the-ripple-effect-lance-knight-discovers-lance-s-right

Nice , thanks for that one, I was told that story as a young fella, even today I find it inspiring , it's good to know that even a every day type surfer can still a impact upon modern surfing.
without all the BS that is attached too today's surfing.

Especially when you think that back in the 90s I was wishing I was a young fella in the 70s so I could get indo in its virgin state...little did I know what was happening in the Ments. My bro went there in 94 on the katika which was the only boat there at the time. Bastido.

Enjoyed that, I'm so hanging for some warm weather waves. 9 weeks to go

meanwhile not far away - a more modern day take on how to surf the place

The surf break was discovered in 1975 by travelling Australian surfers Kevin Lovett and John Giesel. Accompanying them to the bay on 18 June, 1975 when they first surfed it were Peter Troy and Wendy Adcock of Australia, New Zealander Michael Day and Australian Patrick Waite. Lovett and Giesel, aged 20 and 22, were travelling through south-east Asia, living rough and pursuing the surfer's dream of perfect uncrowded waves. They were drawn to Nias by a map they saw in a chieftain's house in North Sumatra. On their final sea leg to the island they found legendary surf traveller Peter Troy and his partner Wendy Adcock. Michael Day,25, a former surfer, and Patrick Waite were travelling in Indonesia and just happened to arrive at the time of the discovery.On the island and after travelling 15 km through jungle they finally reached the bay and were greeted by, as Lovett put it, "Relentless sets of smokin' 6-to-8 foot almond-eyed waves". (That's 6 to 8 Hawaiian scale.) Those who surfed it for the first time were Kevin Lovett, John Giesel and Peter Troy. Michael Day, who swam in the break, could speak Indonesian and, at the request of Lovett and Giesel, asked a local to build a shack for them, and he agreed. That was the beginning of the surf village now there. Lovett and Giesel lived there for 3 months surfing it alone.Giesel and Lovett, and the others who were with them at the time of the discovery, made a pact to keep the place secret, but word leaked out over the years. Giesel never got to enjoy Lagundri again, he suffered repeated bouts of malaria he'd contracted on their travels and died of pneumonia just 7 months later. Lovett maintained his connection with the place, returning many times and getting involved with helping the local people. In around 1995 he learnt from the local siulu (chief and head magician) that the two had actually been in considerable danger from headhunting, which still went on back in 1975.