Surfing is just, surfing. You can't explain it. Those who have never tried, will never feel it and those who have will never let that feeling go.
I've got that feeling newguy.
11 hours of surfing over five days and its not a good feeling![]()
Oh yes it is![]()
Funny, I had a mate ask me yesterday, "What's so good about surfing? You spend all your energy paddling out the back, wait for 20 minutes, get a 5 second ride, then do it all again....."
He's a motocyclist, as am I, so I asked him why he rides a motorcycle..... he responded with the age old.....
"If I have to explain it, you'll never understand"
My point exactly said I, surfing just "is", IMO, it can't be put into any other basket, art, sport, religion. It's all of them, yet it's none of them.... and whilst it can be compared to motorcycling in some ways, it also can't be.
Perhaps Dennis Denuto (The Castle) is correct - "It's the vibe of the thing, your Honour"
Michael
Here's a song about Footy..... Good one for the Viccos.
From Spiderbait in the days when we used to see them with 20 people at the pub in Lismore. Then they got big, and now small again....