... Tell us why ...

Took me a while to realise I am a Longboarder... And now I'm at ease!
For me... Glide, trim, cruise, wave count...

Plus the full volume guns in my collection have been so much fun! So many memorable big waves...

for me it's unexplainable

Lacey, before you posted I was thinking I should have typed - "even Lacey can tell us, because he has a quiver of 'long' boards!"

I am too old and lazy to paddle a short board

Also hard to beat the feeling of gliding along the face of a nice wave .Bit addictive

So I can giggle at the "cool" dudes sitting waist deep in water on their shorties as I paddle staight on past.

Put me down for the fast glide along a clean face

Nothing can beat it

Sometimes turns just get in the way of the stoke

You know at 50 ex shortboarder enters the longboard thingie,best thing I ever did,Simondo I love surfing all things surfing,short long sup surfing its pure rejoice
Its one thing on my mind 24/7 I may not be that good but hell I enjoy having a go.

Keep the STOKE.

SURF MORE

pure stoke of it .... the makers , the characters out there , the people I've been pretty lucky to meet , the history of it all , the future of it all ,,,, some damned good times so far

cheers

I just love swingin the log around

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thePup said...
pure stoke of it .... the makers , the characters out there , the people I've been pretty lucky to meet , the history of it all , the future of it all ,,,, some damned good times so far

cheers

That's good pup I forgot about the characters well said.who cares if your young or old good or not so,tits or none,its what keeps me me and I guess its not a bad thing well I like to think so


nah I love it.

Well said guys!
Excellent Pup!

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smh said...
I just love swingin the log around

Did you say swinging

Storm brewing in the background hello summer

I get asked the same question about riding motorcycles.

If I have to explain it, you won't understand.

You have to ride, or surf, to "get it".

Of course, meeting some of you blokes has added to the charm, and I'm not even as good as Mac, but I still love it.

When I walk into my shed and smell the wetsuit and wax, all I want to do is go down the beach and paddle out

the crash sound of the wave as it curls behind you

the yews from the stoked

the feeling at that pivotal moment when paddling and you realize the wave has picked you up and your good to go

the **** in your head that gets left on the beach

when you go for something you haven't gone for before and make it

the coffee afterwards and the... did you see that wave i got ( even though it may have been barely a foot it felt 10!

I love the noise your board makes as you race down the line on a super clean glassy wave face at 5am. Nothing will ever beat that for me. I love how some boards seems to make such different noises. Love it. I also love duck-diving early in the morning with yr eyes open and seeing the bright sunlight with the reds and oranges sneaking through the wave face as you come back up to the surface. A perk of living on the east coast!

I just seem to live in the 60's I think, I love the old time feel and just mixing it up on a wave. Oh and also taking it out when the unbelievers say it's to big for a longboard, especially the 10ft single fin.

I love it because I am so bad at surfing, I battle and battle and then when I do go for a wave I stack it and all my friends have a good laugh. Its all just a good laugh out there. Like I say" buddies doing stuff with buddies". You cant beat it.