Thought I would give the boards a bit of a treat and do a few repairs on the clear one and at the same time, spruce them up a bit so I'm not so ashamed of then when in the company of SA.

Off on a trip next week so it's the perfect time to get rid of all that old wax embedded with sand and bindi eyes, brown with dirt and smelling vaguely of stale BO and long forgotten farts.

But sadly, I'm not really one of life's winners

After I was done with the repairs and the re-wax of the clear board, I was backing it out of the garage and stepped on the leash, this caused the nose to fly up and hit the underside of the panel lift door, so straight back on the racks for another repair.

No way I could maker a mistake with the old yellow backup board, all I had to do was take it out of the bag, de-wax, wash, re-wax, put back in bag, and good to go No, not me, I tried to get it back in the bag while it was still on the rack, result nice big fracture on the tail



So I figured that as penance for being a useless prick, I would do the repair a little differently and write it up, me and MR were only talking yesterday about repairs using cling wrap and this was the perfect type of ding for that sort of a repair.

I could have just put filler resin in there, but it's better to have a layer of mat if possible, but a very small piece of matting will not wrap around the rails after you wet it out. It keeps on trying to spring back flat.

So with some Lam resin, you wet it out, making sure not to go too far or pull and strands of mat out .





Then you take cling wrap and carefully place it over the wet matting and wrap it around the board a couple of times







Doing this not only holds the mating down very securely, it also does a good job of forcing out any bubbles.

The cling wrap is like a release agent so the resin will not stick to it, provided it was not creased, it also gives a slightly smoother finish to the dried matting.

Once set, it was just a simple matter of applying some sanding resin and giving it a hit with wet n dry.

Now I need to go back outside and somehow get the board back into the bag safely, that may sound like an easy job but with my track record, I'm not so sure

Unlucky Obby mate - I finally got pissed off routinely either falling arse over titty , or copping a board in the nutsack shoving boards into the back of the car/cars due to being tangled in leggie so nowadays I take the bastard thing off after a surf.

Hey fart wax stops board thieves in their tracks stuns the farkers

I've used a similar method for repairs on other f/glass things, what I found was better than straight glad wrap over the top was to use a piece of a4 laminating film on first before the glad wrap, this ensures the finish won't pick up any of the wrinkles of the glad wrap.

This method can be difficult if there is too much of a curve in more than one direction though.

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vanders1 said..
I've used a similar method for repairs on other f/glass things, what I found was better than straight glad wrap over the top was to use a piece of a4 laminating film on first before the glad wrap, this ensures the finish won't pick up any of the wrinkles of the glad wrap.

This method can be difficult if there is too much of a curve in more than one direction though.

Agree.
That's what I do on all my dings. Saves a lot of sanding.

Can't say I've ever thought to use laminating stuff though. Good idea. I had some other plastic that is stiffer then glad wrap but probably not as stiff as laminating plastic and it works well.

For quick and dirty repairs, I always try to use filler/sanding resin because it fully hardens and is ready for sanding, but if I have to use matting, I try to use laminating resin because it's designed not to fully harden until it gets a layer of filler/sanding resin over it. That's why laminating resin will always clog up sand paper.

Yes. used to use cling wrap a lot when I was making car parts, like skid plates, great for making sure stuff does not stick to bars while it hardens

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SP said..

vanders1 said..
I've used a similar method for repairs on other f/glass things, what I found was better than straight glad wrap over the top was to use a piece of a4 laminating film on first before the glad wrap, this ensures the finish won't pick up any of the wrinkles of the glad wrap.

This method can be difficult if there is too much of a curve in more than one direction though.

Agree.
That's what I do on all my dings. Saves a lot of sanding.

Can't say I've ever thought to use laminating stuff though. Good idea. I had some other plastic that is stiffer then glad wrap but probably not as stiff as laminating plastic and it works well.

Those plastic sleeves that go into ring binders work ok too.