43 hits without reply

I think everyone is waiting so they can out do each other

OK I'll start, shortboard day's northern NSW's on a dark stormy
sharky afternoon, me and two mates paddled out on this straight
beach which had a bank way out which was delivering a perfect
peak,you could go either left or right. It was around six foot at the
time and after an hour it grew to around eight. One friend bailed and
it was left to the two of us.

My mate catch the next set wave and I the next.he was paddling out
and I could see this HUGE set on lines coming in and started paddling for the horizon my mate copped it on the head and I was smashed by the white water
and never made it back out

Bali, Kuta reef on a longboard 6 foot mid tide awesome.
Hawaii 07, Backdoor on a longboard 5 foot.After having a big moment and blowing bubbles I struggle over 4 foot now day's, I have a real problem explaining this to my 17 year old son who is fearless and still asks why I dont go anymore.
mac must be getting old