Well, easter sure turned on the swell tap over here in the West.
Saturday morning I pulled my 9'3" from the rack and had my first longboard session for the year.
Gotta have something to love about winter

man was I suprised when I got to Lanno on Sunday!! Decent swell with great banks, yes its a great time of year

My young bloke was seen pulling into 5 foot pits today,he told me and it wasn't until a mate rang me to confirm

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62mac said...

My young bloke was seen pulling into 5 foot pits today,he told me and it wasn't until a mate rang me to confirm

mac you will be @ 6000 posts soon

Coastal Watch probably has some good pics - guys are pulling into 8' barrels at Manly (not long barrels mind you).

Big enough that I haven't surfed for the last 5 day, there's only so much punishment I feel like taking. Supposed to swing south in teh next couple days so should be a bit more managable during the end of the week and the weekend.

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doggie said...

62mac said...

My young bloke was seen pulling into 5 foot pits today,he told me and it wasn't until a mate rang me to confirm

mac you will be @ 6000 posts soon

One more post for ya[}:)]

Mick Victory as he calls him takes off behind the rock on the biggest wave of the day and straightens out knowing he is not going to make it and 10 meters down the line is Matt who takes it and gets covered all the way into Rainbow he is still frothing hours later

Gotta love Autumn swell,
Just got out the surf after a really fun session.... gotta share the stoke

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62mac said...

doggie said...

62mac said...

My young bloke was seen pulling into 5 foot pits today,he told me and it wasn't until a mate rang me to confirm

mac you will be @ 6000 posts soon

One more post for ya[}:)]

Mick Victory as he calls him takes off behind the rock on the biggest wave of the day and straightens out knowing he is not going to make it and 10 meters down the line is Matt who takes it and gets covered all the way into Rainbow he is still frothing hours later

Nice to hear, good to get one off the WC

This morning was a cracker on the Northern Beaches - looks like it should be good through till Sunday atm

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cRAZY Canuk said...

This morning was a cracker on the Northern Beaches - looks like it should be good through till Sunday atm

Yep... if the wind stays where it is southern points will be great up here... this morning had a really big crowd.... all 3 of us on one bank and another 4 down the track..great fun

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climber said...

cRAZY Canuk said...

This morning was a cracker on the Northern Beaches - looks like it should be good through till Sunday atm

Yep... if the wind stays where it is southern points will be great up here... this morning had a really big crowd.... all 3 of us on one bank and another 4 down the track..great fun

Keeping my eye on next weekend, might have to pull out the 6 hour drive, especially if a board with my name on it turns up

Conclusion on this morning...... Bigger is just better... What a great morning surf

Seems that the surf has been PUMPING EVERYWHERE lately !

(Mac - the McT Yellow Dream Machine took a visit to the rocks.... one of my fat and chunky bigger wave leashes, this one by FCS, came undone. The velcro is actually a really "short pile" velcro... not very "grippy"... several turbulant hold down sets slowly loosened the velro ankle strap! Mental note.... press the velcro into itself with more diligence... So the board is in for minor repairs... )

Yep its been pumping latley. I scored last Sunday!!
Sorry for the qaulity as i took these with my phone.

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Simondo said...



(Mac - the McT Yellow Dream Machine took a visit to the rocks.... )

Bummer Simondo.... but you have made me realise I need to replace my leash... still a bummer on your board though

Oh no not the yellow machine hope its not too bad

I ordered three new leashes two weeks ago from my local
surf store,hi Mike if your reading thisstill waiting for
them and a new 6 inch fin.

Yesterday was also REALLY good. Went to Avalon and got heaps of waves with not a lot of crowd...

Amazing place and great wave!

Last 5 days have been outstanding down here - shloud go again this arvo arms are so so tired. Tomorrow should be good in the am again too.

Today was one of those classic windless Autumn days with swell as a bonus. I dont go back to work until Thursday so I 'm hoping enough swell stays around.

No go for me today, but not to worried... got out yesterday for a bloody ripper of a session. Warm water, nice lines and happy happy crowd..
Like you Crazy Canuk...surf for five day (except today..Mums Day) and arms readdy to fall off.. Hats of the seasoned guys who can do it every day.. still getting to that
chers
Climber

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Bender said...

Yep its been pumping latley. I scored last Sunday!!
Sorry for the qaulity as i took these with my phone.

Groovy pics with ya phone Bender, how far to the outer break ? looks good

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MIKO said...

Bender said...

Yep its been pumping latley. I scored last Sunday!!
Sorry for the qaulity as i took these with my phone.

Groovy pics with ya phone Bender, how far to the outer break ? looks good

Miko that day it was a short ten min paddle (SUP) but if a rougue wide one stream rolled you it took 30mins to get into position

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Bender said...

MIKO said...

Bender said...

Yep its been pumping latley. I scored last Sunday!!
Sorry for the qaulity as i took these with my phone.

Groovy pics with ya phone Bender, how far to the outer break ? looks good

Miko that day it was a short ten min paddle (SUP) but if a rougue wide one stream rolled you it took 30mins to get into position

Hate to make it sound like a workplace job, but do you guys (anyone) conduct a personnel risk anaylsis before you hit places like this by yourself eg, only surf with a buddy, check leggy for imperfections, tell some one where ya going, always take the second last or last wave in a set and so on ? i no up here i always check leggie, tell someone whats goin take the last waves in a set if its a bit bigger , check the beach for salties, on never sail on a run out tide blah blah blah ? I have too many swim ins at dark.
Just curious to no how others think

Minor repairs on the Dream Machine.... So it'll fight many for many more days.

The velcro part of the leash came undone !! How weird.... But the ankle strap started to feel looser and looser through the session.... Next time I get that feeling, I'll stop to restrap, and press the velcro together much harder.... As I mentioned, the velcro of my FCS leash isn't as "sticky" as some other brands.... I blame FCS on this one !!

Scored a little knock to the nose, the tail, and 1 patch of scratches on the rail, which will be covered by wax. A guy saved it before it got totaled !!

Oh its just a few flesh wounds.Ouch

Had another great surf this morning..

This stuff is addictive!!!

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Simondo said...

Minor repairs on the Dream Machine.... So it'll fight many for many more days.

The velcro part of the leash came undone !! How weird.... But the ankle strap started to feel looser and looser through the session.... Next time I get that feeling, I'll stop to restrap, and press the velcro together much harder.... As I mentioned, the velcro of my FCS leash isn't as "sticky" as some other brands.... I blame FCS on this one !!

FCS leashes are ****...I have had two...one cam apart at the swivel the other was a short pile shag like yours and ended up shagged like the first one....only CoE for me now....

Autumn swells...where for art thou
it been three days now

south swell kicked in down here around lunchtime

Dont know whats going on,but we copped some serious low tide this weekend,massive amount of sand build up at Snapper into Rainbow,D-Bah.
Kirra had some great waves as well.
Witnessed so fantastic longboarding,log sliders tucking into micro barrels and some fine down the line action,you had to be fast getting up and race,rides today from the G into the C and I have not seen this done for a while,clean winter is coming.

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MIKO said...

Bender said...

MIKO said...

Bender said...

Yep its been pumping latley. I scored last Sunday!!
Sorry for the qaulity as i took these with my phone.

Hate to make it sound like a workplace job, but do you guys (anyone) conduct a personnel risk anaylsis before you hit places like this by yourself eg, only surf with a buddy, check leggy for imperfections, tell some one where ya going, always take the second last or last wave in a set and so on ? i no up here i always check leggie, tell someone whats goin take the last waves in a set if its a bit bigger , check the beach for salties, on never sail on a run out tide blah blah blah ? I have too many swim ins at dark.
Just curious to no how others think

Sorry Miko i missed your question. Yes you have to surf these out breaks with care. I never head out if i know i couldn't swim in on my own. After surfing the SW of WA for the last 25+years i feel comfortable surfing the coast down there(except for when it's massive). I'm no hell man but some days it can be really easy to get into some solid ones. That day it was really clean and breaking consistantly in one spot so it was ok. Any bigger and i would have retreated to the bays and points with crowds.