Never, ever let go of your board……..EVER!

As some know I have been getting back into surfing after a long, long, long break…..

With a 10’2” Longboard, I have been very diligent about holding onto it at all costs when turning turtle. 4- 6ft seas rising to 7ft with offshore winds, perfect for a surf session, you would think!

Since getting back into surfing after a long, long, long hiatus, It’s only been my second surf round at one of my favorite reef breaks (a rocky reef break that handles a big swell and requires a timed jump off a rock ledge over the incoming wave) and I was feeling quietly confident after being out there the previous week.

Rock up there and an old friend is already waiting out the back.

A 10- minute wait on the ledge posed to jump was all I needed to know that the surf was too large and consistent to make it out the back that way.

So with a scramble down the rocks to the outside it was a quick paddle with the rip out the back, a couple minutes chatting……..and that was pretty much the end of the session.

Not being in position with three large waves coming in and only two of us out I decided to bail the board and dive under each wave (after all we are all alone out here, what could go wrong)?

Wave one, was a spectacular view of the reef as I swam just above it.

Wave two, was much the same with enough depth to view the wave as it crashed over- head (always got a kick out of watching the waves from this angle).

Wave three was just a great. That is until I realized there was no pressure of a leg-rope attached to me anymore. Not a great feeling, coming up for air and looking at a board as it rockets along, back to a rocky cliff and shore line.

“Not happy Jan”!

Even less happy at the thought of the swim back in from out at sea.

Now all that training I’ve been doing to get back into it (and to get rid of the gut) gets to pay off.

Paddle, paddle, puff, pant, paddle, paddle, puff, pant, paddle, paddle, puff, pant.

MUST, MAKE IT, BACK, IN, BEFORE THE BORD RECIEVES TOO MUCH DAMAGE, Gulp, need air!

Bit of a rest. Duck under half a dozen waves. Paddle, paddle, puff, pant, paddle, paddle, puff, pant, paddle, paddle, puff, pant.

Duck under a few more.

Back at shore, only to find my board neatly resting on the rocks as though quietly saying “Well, what kept you”?

A cut finger from climbing the ledge, and a couple of bruises, and I reckon I came out pretty good.

…surprisingly the board only has two scratched and a fin that needs replacing. So what did I learn out of this?

As I said, never, ever let go of your board……..EVER!

Mate, that is a massive post.
I read "not happy Jan" which stood out but that's my limit.
Simondo, please summarise.

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NewScotty said..
Mate, that is a massive post.
I read "not happy Jan" which stood out but that's my limit.
Simondo, please summarise.

Don't worry Simondo, I got this one covered.

Scotty, it's a story about how he lost lis board and some really hot chic with tits like rocks retrieved it for him, then she took him back to her place for 3 days of unreal totally freaked out nooky. You're going to have to read it all to get the full effect. And I suggest you get naked and cover yourself with cooking oil beforehand, you'll need it.

I've just returned from the kitchen with some Crisco for a second read

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obct said..

NewScotty said..
Mate, that is a massive post.
I read "not happy Jan" which stood out but that's my limit.
Simondo, please summarise.

Don't worry Simondo, I got this one covered.

Scotty, it's a story about how he lost lis board and some really hot chic with tits like rocks retrieved it for him, then she took him back to her place for 3 days of unreal totally freaked out nooky. You're going to have to read it all to get the full effect. And I suggest you get naked and cover yourself with cooking oil beforehand, you'll need it.

I've just returned from the kitchen with some Crisco for a second read

Yep, bout sums it up.

...Sorry i like to spin a yarn.

Feeling lazy - Bailed board - Lost board - Long swim - Board dented - Me scratched - Lesson learnt.

Hows that for a summery? Though I like obct's version better

Scotty's half a chance.

Crossstep where were you?

glad you got the board back in good nick mate.
Scotty good post about keeping fit or pay the ultimate price.

Glad you got the board back in good nick - what a relief. I broke a leg rope once and had a similar result - one other time not so
Ob great post about how elder surfers still fantasise about the ultimate prize

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obct said..

NewScotty said..
Mate, that is a massive post.
I read "not happy Jan" which stood out but that's my limit.
Simondo, please summarise.

Don't worry Simondo, I got this one covered.

Scotty, it's a story about how he lost lis board and some really hot chic with tits like rocks retrieved it for him, then she took him back to her place for 3 days of unreal totally freaked out nooky. You're going to have to read it all to get the full effect. And I suggest you get naked and cover yourself with cooking oil beforehand, you'll need it.

I've just returned from the kitchen with some Crisco for a second read

Good one OB.
After reading your long summary I read crossteps dosier.

Poor bastard

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McHenry said..
Crossstep where were you?

Down a dirt road somewhere in SE-SA at a place called "Gates".
I still remember the days when this area had no more then a sandy track and no phone reception, "sigh" how the times have changed.

Never heard of it. Surfed Middleton today and struggled getting out the back.

Something to remember..replace your leggie every 2nd year as a precaution..the last thing you want to feel in solid surf is that..Strreeeeeetch..Twang as it breaks:

= Board into the crowd/rocks/beach and a swin in to test all those beers of fitness

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surfbroker said..
Something to remember..replace your leggie every 2nd year as a precaution..the last thing you want to feel in solid surf is that..Strreeeeeetch..Twang as it breaks:

= Board into the crowd/rocks/beach and a swin in to test all those beers of fitness

I'm going one step further and using Ted's technique, buy 2 new leggys as a present to myself every B/day, and only O&E, no more crap brands, I can't swim worth spit.

Agreed Oct..O&E have served me well..