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MangoDingo said..
Dude! Don't be sad mate.

It's a freakin' beast of a wave! You're surfing is next level at the moment - seriously bro. And fair dinkum, I was checking the photos out for ages , zooming in and out, especially the first photo. I couldn't decide, so I thought, righto, if I was judging a comp and it came down to that wave, how would I score it, and it was just sooo close. It'd be like a 9.5 as opposed to a perfect 10 - that's how close it was in my head. But, as slsurf and Creeky said, man, you're clearly slotted - and you're absolutely ripping - so it's definitely yours to claim brus! (And anyway, don't worry about me mate, I'm just jealous af! and hangin' out for some decent waves)



HA HA .I'll take the 9,5 brus, thanks man .
heres the set wave story ,I was sitting out back 7 surfers sitting just to my right ..we where all waiting ,i saw this mountain of water coming from way back i started paddling out the back which made the surfers nervous ,as I notice they watch me now and expect waves when i start paddling ..I paddled deep into the shallow sucky reef ledge ,this thing had spray coming off it already ,i paddled straight at it and done a sharp U turn on the face to catch it and then started paddling like crazy ..some of the surfers where lining up as they thought i was gonna miss it ,as i paddled it just sucked up and spray was coming off the lip both sides of me it was a bit windy i was ready to drop down ,,it was a hell drop in ,spray was coming off the nose of the 8'8 as i hit the bottom of the bowl ,it was at its limits the flow ,and I took a big breath as i thought I was ready to get munted ,all I could her was 7 surfers yelling yeow ...i thought i was a gonna ,but hung in ,a big bottom turn and straight down the line ...i come out of there like a racing horse out of a gate ,i couldn't even turn my board it was going so fast ,my heart was pounding ..and a deep sigh of relieve came as I'd survived ...as that thing would of munched me
i flicked off the back ..the guys where still cheering ..as if they've never seen a wave like it ,or a crazy SUP dude ,
as we all gathered after the surf drinking Iron Jack beer on shore ,and talked about the waves ,it was kinda nice to here a few compliments from surfer ,as SUP is here to stay . .thanks for the stoke comments .I don't really rip .