Might have to put my winter 4/3 suit on tomorrow morning. Was really cold when I was looking at the surf in the dark......thought I would come back when the sun was shining.......but everyone else turned up at the sunshine time :)
I was "feeling good" at town beach this morning. The PSH 12'6 the weapon of choice due to strong offshore wind. Maybe a tricky choice for a beach break......but it can handle it. Was dragged along by the ankle quite a bit whenever it all turned to custard though
surfinJ said.. That was a wailing wave, what a hopping ride!
is a nice beach break.....similar to the waves I see on your vids. Didn't get much footage.....as only went and got camera towards end of session. Using my camera without waterproof housing at moment......just using lots of lube on the thread of the screwup lid (replay xd prime x).....so a bit cautious
No Friday arvo traffic...first day of the week I'm at home and it's still light outside, misus has the kid, surf looks really fun but I'm locked out of the ****ing house and my phone is dead.
Invy bar for a few hrs either side of low tide, then distracted by the surf at The Cave on the drive home. Of course I had to have a play. . 6 hrs of surf time....stuffed
Towball of course thought i should not be using a Bula board....is infected by the local young sup guy viewpoint that smaller is sexier (don't know what their wives think about that concept lol) :)
Monday morning happiness....i get to makorori....and there are no other punters and quite a bit of swell size. PSH 12'6 the chosen weapon due to strong offshore. ...started off at point. Went to centres....about an hour by myself before gizby and the usual suspects paddled out. Big fast breaking peaks breaking on shallow stuff. So i was taking off on the 12'6 thinking "my quads are quite small" :) all good though. The peaks there stand up tall almost for ever before they actually start to break