Took 6 waves on the noggin today at ekas outside. Estimate 10-12ft. Felt bigger. Thought I was going to die. In the end used my paddle to reduce getting dragged underwater and angled the paddle to bring me to the surface or atleast thats what I thought I did. I know I was risking breaking a leggie but was running out of breath fast. Anyone else tried this? Any other suggestions in a situation like this?

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Kakkerlak said..
Took 6 waves on the noggin today at ekas outside. Estimate 10-12ft. Felt bigger. Thought I was going to die. In the end used my paddle to reduce getting dragged underwater and angled the paddle to bring me to the surface or atleast thats what I thought I did. I know I was risking breaking a leggie but was running out of breath fast. Anyone else tried this? Any other suggestions in a situation like this?

Shrink ya balls !!!!

Yeah use the paddle to plane yourself up plus put it out square in front and point free leg straight down , like you are nailed to a cross. This helps lock you in place to reduce the drag back. Puts enormous pressure on the leggie but will actually rip the board out of the back of the wave if you do it early enough and deep enough . If you get dragged back keep the T Handel near your chest and push the head of the paddle down . This will surface you on a drag back. Keep leggies super thick and minimum length to avoid tombstoning. If your leggie snaps never let go of the paddle it's floatation plus it will stop the death roll and put it out in front of you , if you know you are going to hit the bottom. Other than all that just enjoy the flogging

Photos of the 10 - 12 ft or it didn't happen

Kak

In bigger waves consider a waist leash. It seems to drag you closer to the surface.......I remember a thread about them where the cartoon pictured that it will drag you up to the surface. 10-12 foot waves have a huge amount of energy. Keep charging!

Bob

Big Outside Ekas is an unpredictable monster! I know how you're feeling!
But that also means Inside Ekas was 6' to 8' which is were you should have been maybe. Better wave IMO.

Yeah as Piros said...push paddle down as you are being dragged will get you to the surface quicker if you still know which way is up and down!
If you are getting hit by big white water I rekon it's better if your board is upside down (deck down/fins up) it tends to pull less which means you can get some air in the lungs quicker.

At least you're still here to tell the story!
Suggest you get a new leggy after a flogging like that.

Cheers chaps. I have not heard off pushing the paddle outfront. Great advice. But to be honest I'm not going out there again...

Are you staying near Ekas or in Kuta Lombok?

Have surfed outside Ekkas on my own - got a bit **-scared. If leggie snapped then those swirling channels may make it a bit hard to get back in.

Changed to a waist leash - much more comfortable in bigger waves.

Stayed at Ekkas Fantastic - good spot, nice people running the place - not 5 star but a good base with pretty good food if you order properly.

At first I thought this was a thread about getting attacked by short boarders.
And yes, I would.

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Brenno said..
At first I thought this was a thread about getting attacked by short boarders.
And yes, I would.

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BetterIwas said..
Have surfed outside Ekkas on my own - got a bit **-scared. If leggie snapped then those swirling channels may make it a bit hard to get back in.

Changed to a waist leash - much more comfortable in bigger waves.

Stayed at Ekkas Fantastic - good spot, nice people running the place - not 5 star but a good base with pretty good food if you order properly.

Ekas fantastic is unfortunately closed now.

Most big wave guys are wearing vests these days, to help pop back up. Also have seen some people using air canisters in their vests, cant confirm this though

I would like to get the airvest. This is real flotation that can save you from a bad situation.
The same ones the pros were using are now available to the public.

Right now I use kitesurf vests. One when it starts to get big and two when I start to get scared.

How do you dive under a big set with a inflated vest?

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Kakkerlak said..
How do you dive under a big set with a inflated vest?

The pro vests have a deflate mechanism. Can inflate and deflate 2-3 times. I am surprised that the vests are being marketed to the public. The waves that they are used for usually there is a pickup jetski, spotters, radios and a large amount of experience and respect for the ocean. A lot goes into the safety of making big wave surfing possible. A vest is just one small piece to the puzzle.

Bob