Good to see the best big wave break in Victoria finally make the front page. (Hint it is a Holy experience that really Rocks!) Quite difficult to SUP unfortunately due to the very quick Hollow sections!!!

Yes, I surfed this wave for a few days and it is unreal.

We left Bells at solid 8 feet to head to the Falls Festival many moons ago. Rare Summer swell??

This Holy place was indeed Holy for us. Hardly any people, 5 feet of J-Bay like waves, I actually felt like I was at home minus the crowds.

2 days of amazing music, a handful of pirate tickets to the sold out festival left carelessly in the bin by a silly security guard sold for $25 each in Lorne and a wild affair with a lovely lady from Portsea who left her cigarette packet in my shirt pocket with $150 in it and my time surfing the Holy rock has fond memories in my mind. Waves, booze, music and camping and I leave $200 better off. Hahah.

Oh to be 19 again!

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CMC said...

Yes, I surfed this wave for a few days and it is unreal.

We left Bells at solid 8 feet to head to the Falls Festival many moons ago. Rare Summer swell??

This Holy place was indeed Holy for us. Hardly any people, 5 feet of J-Bay like waves, I actually felt like I was at home minus the crowds.

2 days of amazing music, a handful of pirate tickets to the sold out festival left carelessly in the bin by a silly security guard sold for $25 each in Lorne and a wild affair with a lovely lady from Portsea who left her cigarette packet in my shirt pocket with $150 in it and my time surfing the Holy rock has fond memories in my mind. Waves, booze, music and camping and I leave $200 better off. Hahah.

Oh to be 19 again!

Sounds like a story line from a Les Norton book

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rager said...

CMC said...

Yes, I surfed this wave for a few days and it is unreal.

We left Bells at solid 8 feet to head to the Falls Festival many moons ago. Rare Summer swell??

This Holy place was indeed Holy for us. Hardly any people, 5 feet of J-Bay like waves, I actually felt like I was at home minus the crowds.

2 days of amazing music, a handful of pirate tickets to the sold out festival left carelessly in the bin by a silly security guard sold for $25 each in Lorne and a wild affair with a lovely lady from Portsea who left her cigarette packet in my shirt pocket with $150 in it and my time surfing the Holy rock has fond memories in my mind. Waves, booze, music and camping and I leave $200 better off. Hahah.

Oh to be 19 again!

Sounds like a story line from a Les Norton book

Nah couldn't be, I didn't blow anything up, knock anybody's teeth across the room or save a country. Haha.

I love Les Norton books.

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CMC said...

rager said...

CMC said...

Yes, I surfed this wave for a few days and it is unreal.

We left Bells at solid 8 feet to head to the Falls Festival many moons ago. Rare Summer swell??

This Holy place was indeed Holy for us. Hardly any people, 5 feet of J-Bay like waves, I actually felt like I was at home minus the crowds.

2 days of amazing music, a handful of pirate tickets to the sold out festival left carelessly in the bin by a silly security guard sold for $25 each in Lorne and a wild affair with a lovely lady from Portsea who left her cigarette packet in my shirt pocket with $150 in it and my time surfing the Holy rock has fond memories in my mind. Waves, booze, music and camping and I leave $200 better off. Hahah.

Oh to be 19 again!

Sounds like a story line from a Les Norton book

Nah couldn't be, I didn't blow anything up, knock anybody's teeth across the room or save a country. Haha.

I love Les Norton books.

gold

I've telling everybody Vicco is God's own country for years and your story proves it CMC. Pure Gold You can just about see God's Dad's house er...... I mean Wayne Lynch's Dad's house in the photo. And they wondered why he was so good a surfer!!

Hahaha, I just remembered a small detail from that story.

Those tickets in the bin were put there by a security guard on the gate that was also making sure no glass was taken in. I put a couple of bottles in the bin and grabbed the un-ripped, un-punched handful that he threw in after he collected a few.

The best bit was other than selling a few was that when we went to leave in the morning as we arrived on the 1st day they were saying no pass outs, if you leave you leave. Most of the crew with boards etc just turned back and forgot about it.

My crew just smiled and went anyway.

So that's why there was no crowds, they were all locked in the campsite. We sold some tickets and then used the rest to get back in ourselves. The trip was blessed.

Too --------- good!!

These pictures don't show Mike (he was behind the camera at the time), but he was out here on his SUP in these waves a week ago - two sessions there on the day. On his SUP with two prone board friends and another 20+ shortboarders who, shall we say, weren't quite so accommodating to a SUP in "their" lineup.

Great effort by Mike to hook into these waves at this spot. How he didn't end up on the rocks I don't know - quite a few shortboarders did. He picked off the bigger sets - so the waves he surfer were probably a bit bigger and meatier than the ones in the pics, but broke a little wider.

In these conditions you can get fabulous rides and fabulous beatings, too. You just gotta be prepared to take your medicine (and, a few dings if you get caught inside).

I hope that's a dolphin in the 2nd shot.

Great pictures cheers

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surfydad said...

I hope that's a dolphin in the 2nd shot.

looks like a weed bed
nice pics

Top pics Mike, thanks for posting them Rosscoe. He's a better man than I am "Gunga Din". Oops, showing my age again. There's lots of kelp beds from there on down to Apollo Bay, so that probably is Kelp as Miko says, though there have been heaps of Dolphins around following the salmon. The pictures are excellent but can't show how heavy the lip is at that spot. It comes straight out of deep Water and hits the ledge. Express over on the Island (Phillip)and Massacre Bay really down South are the only places I've been collected harder. All of the places are more than worth it when you make it. You can hear your heart beating in your ears!!

great photos Roscoe, yep first surfed there before leg ropes which often meant being washed down to the beach and then running back to find the board which hopefully had been saved by some good fellows, otherwise it meant a few days out of the water repairing dings. bloody heavy wave when big with awesome power for hold downs, mmm I just like to watch it nowadays back then there was massive kelp beds with long threads that would entangle the surfers which just added to the respect required for the wave, unfortunately with the sewer out falls around the corner towards Lorne most of the kelp has disappeared

Ocka I reckon I gotta know you? Were you Fish, Moose and Wicky's vintage or Browny and the two Powelly's? I was in between those two and was reasonable mates with Peter Bell, Frank Petersen Geoff McPaul and Steve Jones whilst Lorne was my home base. Have I asked this question before?

yeh I remember, you were that bloke that kept dropping in on me..... only kidding, as grommets we were taken on surf trips by those blokes and often led astray, all those names are known, age wise in between browny and the other mongrels, I'll send you email have a chat you may be able to help me recover all those lost years

So how long have you been out of Rehab? LOL. Wicky in particular was very naughty , naughty boy. Look forward to your email. Any way just because you could'nt work out where the take off spot was, wasn't my fault!!!, I've never ever dropped in. I've also got some watches that you might be interested in buying, real Rolexs'.......Cheers Leroy