The tourists this summer have had much rain and wind and the surfers among them
were mostly screwed with either small period chop or unsurfable XL mess.
Well this day that all changed and everywhere lit up. This spot starts to close out when the period starts to get longer and this day was at the limit, @11s.
Not being able to duck dive is tricky. If for whatever reason I end up in foamy water it's back in to and then a walk back up the beach.
*No waterlife creatures were injured in the making of this video.