Just had a great surf - had to share

Started with two friendly proners (no, really). But after 45 minutes had the waves to myself. Thigh to waist high to sometimes shoulder high waves - lots waist high (I am 6'3") so not huge but FUN, FUN, FUN! I am an old guy so I wasn't smackin' the lip, but I gave it a good caressing!
About 20% if the time it was strong offshore and even raining, but the rest of the time it was glassy or light off-shore - waves stood up nicely.
But the weather - watching squalls drift past, with rain pouring down (at a distance), lines of black clouds, with the most amazing, bright rainbows. And then the sunset at the end! Nature sure can put on a show!
I was riding my 8'10" Acid - what a board!!
45 waves in 3 hours before the battery got too low in the Rip Curl watch.
Fun stuff - but now I am knackered! It is a great feeling
