Talk about annoying ... I was chatting to my partner out the back when a freak wave came at us a couple of days ago. We both did what you would normally do under the circumstances, paddle out fast to get over it. The wave broke (of course!) and we took a spill. Trouble was the boards collided together in the mess. It could have been worse though as she as behind me and could have got hit her instead. We know now to split to either side if if ever happened again and dive to the side, rather than emphasising going out.

If we had thought of this earlier it would have saved a lot of grief, and a bunged up board. Thankfully the older one was ok.


I'm wondering what other tips others have regarding safety that might not have been discussed here? There's been lots said here regarding leg ropes and shaving down the back of the fins sounds totally sensible but another other thoughts?

For this specific situation:

- ditch the board to the side, away from you (and especially others!). This ensures [1] the boards will not be pushed backwards, with the fins cutting the leash [2] the wave lip doesnt fall in the middle of the board, breaking it in half

- it is often worth going for a part where the foam is gentler. It can even be worth paddling towards the beach if the foam strength dissipates quickly, to do a wide detour around the impact zone.

- never hold the board in bigger waves, it is a recipe for a dislocated shoulder.

This may be common practice.

When I am going to bit hit by whitewater - e.g. when paddling back out - I turn my back and duck under after first pushing my board toward shore to the extreme length of the leg rope. I also lie under water with my legs pointing towards shore.

1. The board is as far from me as possible.
2. The board is not propelled forward thus putting less strain on the leggie (F=ma, a=0).
3. The leggie is far less likely to get wrapped around your leg/feet which can be injured when the leggie goes tight
4. The leggie is less likely to be cut by the fins.
5. With fins down and the board pointing towards shore, the wave is less likely to whip it around and it presents less resistance to the wave and is more likely to still be fins-down after the wave passes - thus easier to pull back towards me.
6. I can't think of a sixth reason
7. Because my legs are pointing towards shore, I think there is less likelihood of a leg/knee ingury - no sideways jarring. (Sometimes I bend my knee and straighten it on impact to take some shock out of the pull of the board, but only if the wave is smaller.)

Select to expand quote

cantSUPenough said..
This may be common practice.

When I am going to bit hit by whitewater - e.g. when paddling back out - I turn my back and duck under after first pushing my board toward shore to the extreme length of the leg rope. I also lie under water with my legs pointing towards shore.

1. The board is as far from me as possible.
2. The board is not propelled forward thus putting less strain on the leggie (F=ma, a=0).
3. The leggie is far less likely to get wrapped around your leg/feet which can be injured when the leggie goes tight
4. The leggie is less likely to be cut by the fins.
5. With fins down and the board pointing towards shore, the wave is less likely to whip it around and it presents less resistance to the wave and is more likely to still be fins-down after the wave passes - thus easier to pull back towards me.
6. I can't think of a sixth reason
7. Because my legs are pointing towards shore, I think there is less likelihood of a leg/knee ingury - no sideways jarring. (Sometimes I bend my knee and straighten it on impact to take some shock out of the pull of the board, but only if the wave is smaller.)

This method is fine if you are surfing by yourself, but pretty dangerous to others if not. Like most things you do in the surf you need a variety of methods to stay safe and keep others safe. Probably the most important thing is to stay concentrated on your surrounds, other surfers and the conditions,and try to avoid those situations where you put yourself and others at risk. Make sure you are surfing somewhere that suits your skill set and experience.

^^^ why did you not say that about ditching to the side? That sounds worse....

Select to expand quote

cantSUPenough said..
This may be common practice.

When I am going to bit hit by whitewater - e.g. when paddling back out - I turn my back and duck under after first pushing my board toward shore to the extreme length of the leg rope. I also lie under water with my legs pointing towards shore.

1. The board is as far from me as possible.
2. The board is not propelled forward thus putting less strain on the leggie (F=ma, a=0).
3. The leggie is far less likely to get wrapped around your leg/feet which can be injured when the leggie goes tight
4. The leggie is less likely to be cut by the fins.
5. With fins down and the board pointing towards shore, the wave is less likely to whip it around and it presents less resistance to the wave and is more likely to still be fins-down after the wave passes - thus easier to pull back towards me.
6. I can't think of a sixth reason
7. Because my legs are pointing towards shore, I think there is less likelihood of a leg/knee ingury - no sideways jarring. (Sometimes I bend my knee and straighten it on impact to take some shock out of the pull of the board, but only if the wave is smaller.)

I do this too, kicking hard with my legs, to hopefully propel me under the lip, all whilst holding on to the paddle.