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Makaha said...
He's very low key,in the water you get nothing out of him other than a surfing lesson.
One wave he takes off late and he no spring chicken,couple of turns,gets pitted into little marley comes out and lites up all the way to greenmount.He paddled past me and I say hey great wave man and he nodes,said nothing.
ha that doesn't surprise me-old school.
when we were lads we used to look away if one of our mates was ripping or getting shacked as we were paddling out
the biggest mistake was to say did you see that wave- answer no, but you were right there- no, but you must have seen my barrel- oh, you calling that a barrel!!!!!!- the wave just smacked you in the head haha
next was one was did you see my reo- no, you should have told us you were going to do a turn.
and so on, no lovey dovey at dbar in those days hey mac



cheers