Recently purchased a S/H SUP looked in good nick. later found some bubbles and a little water coming out of a small hole on the deck (which initially looked like a paint chip) while in the sun.

Q is should I continue to let it out in the sun to ensure it has completely dried out (seems like there is no water coming out anymore), and/or should I seal it up while it is warm or do it in normal indoor temperature?

You could be in a world of hurt. I bought a board from a guy in burliegh, a DC, chased leaks all over, never fixed it properly, now known as sea sponge.
Good luck
Goggo

It depends on the brand, I have had starboard with a hole bigger than that for 8 years, also naish seem to last with holes, not sure about that one though, good luck.
pump.

It's a Fanatic Allwave 2016, not sure how long the hole has been there. Main concern is to ensure water not still in there. Might speak to him...

I had this problem with 2 second hand boards.
Providing it is a polystyrene core and epoxy it is never going to "fill up" but it will get heavier over time. And ,depending on use, shouldn't deteriorate much.
I live in Queensland which helps with the following. It takes some attention.
You can use the sun to get most of the water out.
Put the board in the sun and look for the seep points.
Mark them with a marker with a "circle" with the crack/hole at the centre . If you use a dry erase , be careful not to rub off. I use permanant and clean it off with grease and wax remover.
Duct tape close all but one.
Put it back in the sun with the first fault at the lowest point and let the sun heat it up. Put something undet the spot to clooect water.
Because it has holes in it , it isn' going to bong.
As soon as the water stops coming out , put it in the shade and repeat the process after it cools down.
A laser thermometer is handy for this to check when it is back to ambient temp.
Once no more water comes out of that fault retape it and move to the next one repeating the above until all faults have been dehydrated.
NOW! reseal all the holes and check for any more that escaped the first discovery step. Do the same with them until all faults are found.
You can now do you taper grinds to re"glass" the faults.
While you are doing the repairs put a goretex breather ( or equivalent ) in the board. If you can't find one, or are happy to remember to open and close a manual ( cheaper) breather you ca go that route.
You have a board with more air/water in it than it was designed for and it now must breathe, or it will bong much more easily, than it would have before.
Finish it to a std, you are happy with and you should have reliable board.
Please tell any prespective buyer that it has been repaired if you sell it.

Thanks Greg, I sort of had the same idea. Last time in the sun didn't seem to be any water coming out so hoping it's becoming dry inside. Might give it a few more goes but don't want to leave out in sun too long. BTW there's only one hole I found.

Guys at the repair shop said the only option was to make a large cut to ensure all water comes out, otherwise just plug it with araldite and live with it.

I do worry that it will bubble/bong

WEIGH the board.
Look up the spec weight.
Seal that area.

Yes good idea.
Find some decent scales.

Manufacturers' are always a bit tardy around giving weights, have improved in recent years.

Fanatic 8'5 is 8.5kg but is that HRS or what constx??).

My Sunny King 14x27 carbon was supposed to be 10kg and was 12.8kg... without fins.

Select to expand quote

LeeD said..
WEIGH the board.
Look up the spec weight.
Seal that area.

Don't bother. You know it is venting air so its thru to the core and we know styro cores suck water. So forget scales and fix it. The weights vary by a few hundred grams anyway....

Shorter version / slightly better version of gregjet's post- use a wick in the hole. Drill it out about 5-6mm and jam a twisted up paper towel or bit of cotton cord/rope in there. Leave some hanging free. It will suck the water out by capillary action in addition to the sun and being at the lowest point.

The hole can later be fixed as per normal fibreglass repairs or use Solarez etc but of course use epoxy not 'fibreglass resin'