Just noticing that the deck grip on my trusty Fanatic Prowave is lifting in a few spots and looks like its time to do something about it. I'd prefer not to start using glues and stuff, unless there's a product out there that would be perfect for the job.

Wondering if anybody has ever successfully removed and replaced a deck grip?

I'd be keen to hear a few pearls of wisdom.

Also wondering how hard it is to track down deck grips and approx cost?

Thanks

Done several including a brand new "aligator skin" deck on a brand new SIC RS SF , because the grip was pretty well nonexistant. If you are in Australia, Bunnings has large bottles ( and I mean LARGE) of a clear solvent called "Grease and Wax remover". I seems to dissolve the glue used on most quality deck pads and doesn't hurt the epoxy at all ( can't vouch for the Styrene foam if it exposed anywhere). That, and a temperature controlled heat gun ( which you need for removing and glueing you paddle handles) and a quality paint scraper. It is a long and tedious process, but you can do a good job if you are patient and careful.

Any method is painful as the grip is thin and tears, UV affected even worse. Heat as above I find just too hard (and time is money)
I put towels all over, saturate with turps (a whole bottle) and plastic bag it for about 30 to 40 mins. Much will just peel off easy then.
Then do same again for just the glue reside (second bottle of turps) then plastic scraper and rags.
Wash well with detergent and you have prefect for reapplication of new stuff.

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Mark _australia said..
Any method is painful as the grip is thin and tears, UV affected even worse. Heat as above I find just too hard (and time is money)
I put towels all over, saturate with turps (a whole bottle) and plastic bag it for about 30 to 40 mins. Much will just peel off easy then.
Then do same again for just the glue reside (second bottle of turps) then plastic scraper and rags.
Wash well with detergent and you have prefect for reapplication of new stuff.

The temp controlled heat gun makes it easier to get melt temp and the grease and was remover can be forced into the peel back with the hot air from the heat gun. Speeds up the process considerably and you only need to use a smaller amount of solvent.

I have read somewhere (PonoBill?) that a multi-tool works well, but didn't try it myself (yet?)

I use the towels and turps. Lots of turps, plastic wrap it and leave it for 12 hours at least - the turps has to soak through the pad to the glue below. Pad will peel off without scrapers or heat then clean up residual glue with more turps. And a scraper, but no effort should be required
Doing it with heat and scrapers just leads to burnt fingers.
I've done quite a few to get to this conclusion.
New pads Australian Jet Ski Parts or something, or if in Melbourne SUP warehouse
www.supwarehouse.com.au/product/white-eva-non-slip-traction/
New pads will have self adhesive 3M backing but beware - sticking it down is an all or nothing exercise.
Let me try and find something

Deck pad removal stuff buried in here.
And replacement.
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Stand-Up-Paddle/SUP/The-story-of--Iron-Phil--?page=1

So pain to remove!
But as kiwi I brought in Tauranga

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Nozza said..
I use the towels and turps. Lots of turps, plastic wrap it and leave it for 12 hours at least - the turps has to soak through the pad to the glue below. Pad will peel off without scrapers or heat then clean up residual glue with more turps. And a scraper, but no effort should be required
Doing it with heat and scrapers just leads to burnt fingers.
I've done quite a few to get to this conclusion.
New pads Australian Jet Ski Parts or something, or if in Melbourne SUP warehouse
www.supwarehouse.com.au/product/white-eva-non-slip-traction/
New pads will have self adhesive 3M backing but beware - sticking it down is an all or nothing exercise.
Let me try and find something

My vote is for the turps method, I've successfully used this method a few times.

Oh yeah but valid point raised above......

Turps and wax-n-grease remover will bugger styro cores. Pretty much everything does......
So this method is only for boards you *know* are undamaged sealed. Even fumes in a bag, doesn't have to be poured in a crack.

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Mark _australia said..
So this method is only for boards you *know* are undamaged sealed. Even fumes in a bag, doesn't have to be poured in a crack.

And beware of the Goretex vents. You want to seal them with tape before applying turps, as otherwise there is the risk of fumes going through the vent and dissolving the EPS foam core.