Every now and again things happen that restore your faith in mankind.

We live in such troubled times. So many in the media driving wedges between different groups based on their preferences, age, origins, and so on. Years of history that is hard to set aside. Differences that run to the core of our very being.

Yesterday I was surrounded by people who I assumed would be my mortal enemies. The looks you get send a chill through your spine. You hear muffled comments and assume they are talking about you.

Yes, I was surrounded by old guys on mals, bald guys on goatboats, and a few younger shortboarders. We were out at big left, 1 km off-shore, the conditions were almost perfect and the swell was building.

Tension was in the air.

This story surely could not have a happy ending, right?

So I took off on a good wave, rode a clean wall to the right, but had to urgently cut back to avoid one guy paddling back out, then cut to the right to miss another guy. I felt my back go twang. Not good.

As I was paddling back out my back hurt but I thought it would be fine. I could paddle through the pain. The waves were too good.

Out the back I could see a cracker coming. Glassy, standing up, inviting me to take off. The previous few waves had cleared the crowd so it was my wave. I turned, dug my paddle to start on the hunt, and ZAP - like a lightning strike, my back hurt something fierce! I dropped to the water like I had been shot.

Bugger!

So I managed to drag myself on to the board and slowly prone paddle away from the line-up.

Here comes the miracle...

After 5 minutes or so, first one of the guys on a goatboat came over to see how I was, and then an old guy on a mal. Even with the waves pumping in glassy conditions they came to see how a guy on a sup was doing and offered to help me back to shore.

See, there are still Christmas miracles! I swear I could hear angels singing.

But I was still 1 km off-shore, and there was no way I would let them miss the session.

Over the next hour I slowly prone paddled back, occasionally rolling into a ball (in the water) to stretch the back muscles (on the advice of the goat-boater) and made it back to shore.

But the miracle continues.

10 minutes from shore the goat-boater paddled with me (he said it was the end of his session but I think he was filled with the joy of Christmas and just wanted to help) and then carried my board up to my car. I could hardly walk. Another guy dried my board and put it into my car.

Ah, it is great to be alive to have your faith in your fellow man restored!

Most surfers are nice people.. All kinds of surfers. Bummer about your back.

Hey CSE - spewing for you mate.
No good at all - especially out there in v good conditions. (What I'd give to be back down there at the Left with a bit of swell, watchin the hangliders cruising round).
Good to hear the crew looked after you and got you back in.
I know that paddle and it can be a bugger even without a crook back! But even more so when the waves are firing.
Oh well - that's why they invented test cricket I suppose.
Get the anti-inflammotories going and rest up mate!

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MangoDingo said..
Oh well - that's why they invented test cricket I suppose.

Classic!

Yep, big left was great yesterday, but you should have seen it on Monday!

Nooooo!!!!
oh man - might be time to pack up and head home!!!

Some friends are heading over to the pig and whistle for lunch today - I'm getting updates from them, family in Dromana, the waves are on - the Peninsula's calling CSE!!!

ouch...you will be out for a good week
I'm afraid to say ,rest up ,and glad you can always rely on a victorian for help.

It's human nature to help one another ,unless your a hard arse .

I'M always in and out of sore backs ,it cripple's ya ,but you'll come springing back for more ....

don't look at the surf report ,it hurts even more .and glad you made it back to shore ...

get the deep heat out .hot baths ,and rest for a few days .

then flat water paddle after your able to walk ok ,keeping straight ,and build those muscles up again
lots of stretching , groin especially ,and magnesium for cramping .

signed, Doctor tardy

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Tardy said..
ouch...you will be out for a good week
I'm afraid to say ,rest up ,and glad you can always rely on a victorian for help.

It's human nature to help one another ,unless your a hard arse .

I'M always in and out of sore backs ,it cripple's ya ,but you'll come springing back for more ....

don't look at the surf report ,it hurts even more .and glad you made it back to shore ...

get the deep heat out .hot baths ,and rest for a few days .

then flat water paddle after your able to walk ok ,keeping straight ,and build those muscles up again
lots of stretching , groin especially ,and magnesium for cramping .

signed, Doctor tardy

Ha! Yr a Legend Doc!!!

Too many words for me to read

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quikdrawMcgraw said..
Too many words for me to read

I'll summarize: I surfed. I had to dodge two proners. In doing so I stuffed my back. A mal and goat-boater helped.

The rest is tongue-in-cheek sad-attempt-at-humor ramble

Contrary to popular belief, once the acute phase has stabilised (i.e. you can move), best to get out and be active starting lightly - walking and swimming freestyle with bilateral breathing are great starts...

To a speedy recovery CSE

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Eski said..
Contrary to popular belief, once the acute phase has stabilised (i.e. you can move), best to get out and be active starting lightly - walking and swimming freestyle with bilateral breathing are great starts...

To a speedy recovery CSE

Thanks Esky (and Tardy). It is feeling quite a lot better (the endone may be contributing to that).

I have avoided back 'injuries' over the past few years due to core exercises and focus on using my core. I used to stuff my back frequently before then.

Time for a swim.

As passive core / back booster,
footwear has made big difference to my back issues (to much driving in safety boots ) .
Rocker soles shoes, MBT, after work for long walks n outside use to stimulate core. If I miss my minimum every other day walks, back tights up.
With Berk's indoors for more relaxed stimulus.
Ps. Barefoot is not a option in this prickle n burr minefield .
Pps, MBT,s on StreetSUP is a kin to foiling at a guess .

Thanks for sharing . Awesome

CSE,

Great story......as an ex-goat boater......(hmmm can you ever be an ex-goat boater....or are you always a goat boater?).....I found it particularly heart warming!

Cheers

Bob

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Eski said..
Contrary to popular belief, once the acute phase has stabilised (i.e. you can move), best to get out and be active starting lightly - walking and swimming freestyle with bilateral breathing are great starts...

To a speedy recovery CSE

And if you can't do bilateral, unilateral will do,

Hey CSE,

Great story, sorry to hear about your back.

There's an unreal Physio in Balnarring, can send you details if you want.

Sometimes you need someone to straighten your old bones up gain to help get back to normal, it sure helps me.

Cheers

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micksmith said..

Eski said..
Contrary to popular belief, once the acute phase has stabilised (i.e. you can move), best to get out and be active starting lightly - walking and swimming freestyle with bilateral breathing are great starts...

To a speedy recovery CSE

And if you can't do bilateral, unilateral will do,

Or a snorkel if you can't be fanged either, or both ways

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shoodbegood said..
Hey CSE,

Great story, sorry to hear about your back.

There's an unreal Physio in Balnarring, can send you details if you want.

Sometimes you need someone to straighten your old bones up gain to help get back to normal, it sure helps me.

Cheers

Thanks - I guess you are talking about Paul? I went to see him the afternoon of my 'injury'. I can walk now and feel much better. And I went for a swim yesterday. I'll be surfing again soon - I hope!

Yeh mate!

Paul had helped me many times now !

Yes, the media does love to paint a gloomy picture, but these are actually the least troubled times in human existence.

People are good.
Your story shows that.... it's always nice to hear how the real world is doing, outside media hype.

Like most, I have suffered back troubles in the past, so I greatly appreciate the conundrum of good waves and a disabled back.
I met one of my best friends when he helped me out of the water, then carried and loaded my SUP, after he helped me up the path.

Heal well and heal fast my friend.
While you are healing, read "Factfulness"
it is a very uplifting study of how good current world conditions really are.
Factfulness:
Ten Reasons We're Wrong About the World - and Why Things Are Better Than You Think.
a 2018 book by Hans Rosling.

Hans has a very interesting way to assess things like wealth inequality