IT GOT WORSE , but the waves I got where Fast and I was stuffed after 1.5 hours , hard core even though on shore-ish , just thought I'd share the memory of the day ,a few surfer s came out later ,it was about 5 foot .but if you caught a wave all the way in ,it turned into a left hander ,so a good long ride ,I had my 8,7 placid ,but wish i had the 9,1 acid ,
At 5 foot I sh1t my pants .....especially off the wave . The white water kills me. I guess it depends in type of break. 5 foot at beach break is a nightmare for me. At a point type break maybe you can manage the exit and entry better
Don't worry I get hammered ...you have to wait for a break in the waves then paddle like hell ,but out behind that point its gnarly and thats where you take off ... you have to push yourself to do it ,but the rewards of power waves are unreal ..I hit it again on the 9,11 insane and out run them .. ....rounded rails are so nice in choppy face waves ...
you have to push yourself to do it ,but the rewards of power waves are unreal ..I hit it again on the 9,11 insane and out run them .. ....rounded rails are so nice in choppy face waves ...
