Ya gotta love a country that enshrines the punt to the point of sanctioning public holidays to celebrate regional horse races. Yesterday was Geelong Cup Day sometimes referred to as the Ugg Boot Cup. No work for me.
Up for the early at five thirty and surfed my favourite reef until eight, home for some brekky and then back for a check at low tide. Bugga me if this cheeky little bank had'nt popped up and there was no one in sight. Strait out there for another two hours and then back home to get arvo tea organised for the kids after school.
My young bloke has just had a cast removed from a broken arm, skateboard accident on his birthday skateboard, on his birthday!!! Anyway, he was frothing for a splash so I took him over to the back beach with every intention of just looking on. Blow me if the wind had'nt swung straight, the swell jacked and it was going off. Could barely drag myself over the hill but managed to put in another hour.
Decided I would capture this epic day for posterity. Camera was hating the early sesh, dawn light and early sun while it sits in the shade just doesnt agree. Couldnt get the angles right on the second sesh and just couldnt catch the right waves in the third.
It was a seriously warm day, steamer in the morning, boardies and vest at mid day and just bordies in the arvo and before you all start having a crack, the guy going for the second wave called me into it and the kid who drops in on the last wave is my young bloke. He was struggling so i called him into a set wave to share some quality father and son time.
Vid quality a smidge better if you take the HD option
Startin to feel good about The Red Rocket
Cheers
Sparx