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MickPC said..Great book...other good surfing reads, "Kong - Gary Elketon" & "MP - Life of Michael Peterson...just about finished MP, looking for the next. Maybe Occy's book

MickPC excellent, but I've read'm all I love surfing I love Downwind Paddling but surfing is more fun.
If you haven't read these books but I'd say you have already.
Surfers Code from my Idol Shaun Tompson
The Wave, is all about heavy ocean swells
Bunker Spreckels, they named a town after him on Maui, The Man, The Myth, The Legend, but died too young.
Thrust, Simon Anderson Legend
Laird Hamilton, say no more.
Looking forward to reading Westerly (Poor C##t frightening) The bloke is not normal,Heavy.