The stoke reservoir that is. The days of big drops, power turns and hollow speed runs, I remember those days. That stokes for sure.For me though the average or less day has nothing to sear into the memory. But it is still the most surfing I do, waiting for the next...What got me as a kid on those first surfs, and what I can still get now at 60, is the glide. And I just can't get enough. This was one of those forgettable surfs.

oh ,I think you meant unforgettable

Nice dawner J!
Playing tag with the shorebreak

Vids like this speak to me... I always liked the almost high tide softies, although I prefer the other side of high.
Getting out first, when they just start to feather.

High water gives a thicker wave with more umph, so at just the right tide, the waves have nice swoopy shoulders.... and the occasional runner