Sun is back out. I get so many comments about the stupid mask, it's ridiculous. Before all this covid BS, people simply assumed (rightly) it's for the sun. Now they automatically assume it's for covid...when you're out in the water...surfing...alone... Like the whole world went and caught a case of the stupid. Skin cancer is real. Have to deal with it all the time now, because the first 3 decades surfing, I was dumb. I'm still dumb, but smarter about four hours on the ocean at UV index 7 in February /rant
So anyway, this is a remote point break. 20 minute paddle by SUP. Only left. It gets big and nasty. Super shallow. When it's overhead, it'll drain, and half the wave turns into the lip. When it gets really big, it's one of the most terrifying ridable waves I've seen. This break hates people, and loves human flesh. Today is head to a little bit overhead on the peak we're riding. Probably close to double at the point, but that's above my paygrade on a SUP ;D Even on a smaller day like today, it's constantly shifting, and shape changing as it moves across the reef. To surf it well, you have to be able to read the reef and water pretty well.
cool vid oki 
