Hi guys. I've got a JP widebody wood laminate 8ft 2" board around 6 years old.
Just last year after surfing a few shoulder high close outs on my local beach I had dug the nose into the the shallow sandy bottom after making it through a close out. It was just as I was riding the whitewash to the shore where I nose dived it enough to dig in and me fall forwards away from the board.
I still surfed on & only copped a few normal wipeouts.

But anyway my mate pointed out a crease on the deck that was between the deck pad and nose. But no crease on the underside.
So all I could put it to was that nose dive into the sand bottom that wasn't hard, just more like a dig in at slow speed.

So just wondering if anyone had the same experience or would this board crease from maybe tying down on a roof rack.
My roof racks are fairly wide aluminium and never had any issues.

Unless you're using a ratchet style tie downs I doubt it would be the cause.

In my early SUP days I did this exact same thing about 3 expensive times. I think (my theory at least) the surface area of the board sucks or holds on to the water as the nose hits the sand. Not enough power to snap just crease. I couldn't understand why it had happened in such small white water. 2 Starboards and a Coreban. I blamed the boards until I accepted reality.

Correction above. Did it twice. The third the nose split around the rail about 300mm in length.

Thanks bigmc. I don't normally surf close outs. But after making it through a few, it was so much fun. I had basically caught up to the whitewash of another wave & nose dived when I went over it. The water was less than 30cm deep.
My board creased & cracked a little at the rails. But was still water tight. But I epoxied over the cracks in case.
I trued to get the crease out with hot water & suction caps with not much success. The wood laminate nate it more difficult I think.
But anyway you would hardly notice the crease.

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Seajuice said..
Thanks bigmc. I don't normally surf close outs. But after making it through a few, it was so much fun. I had basically caught up to the whitewash of another wave & nose dived when I went over it. The water was less than 30cm deep.
My board creased & cracked a little at the rails. But was still water tight. But I epoxied over the cracks in case.
I trued to get the crease out with hot water & suction caps with not much success. The wood laminate nate it more difficult I think.
But anyway you would hardly notice the crease.

The crease should disappear over time.
EPS foam has memory, and will return to shape.
Epoxy is the same solid, as it is as a liquid, with many cross links that will allow the foam to slowly come back to shape.

Have you noticed that it is less than when it first happened?

This pic shows the bottom of my board when I arrived in Portugal.
I had disassembled my paddle and taped the parts to the board, inside the board bag.
My paddle handle had slipped under my board and something heavy must have been on my board for the flight, so it left a deep imprint of the handle.
No cracks, just a deep dent.
within 2 months it had totally come back to shape and there was no way to even find where it had been.



This was the area where the dent had been.
I sold the board and installed a "Shark Shield" for my buddy in June, so these pics are 5 months apart, but the dent was gone after only 2 months.

Thanks SPC. It's a board I don't often use unless I need ultimate stability.
I will check it again & let you know.
I have a feeling that if the wood laminate under the epoxy splits or splinters it may change the structure & probably stay the way it is. But unsure if my board has gone as far as that.
I remember when I bought a 10ft Blackhawk cheap brand board for my wife who has still got it. I noticed a few dents, one big like yours & the others were smaller.
So I got some hot water & different sized suction cups that were the same diameter & some even smaller in circumference than the dents.
I poured the water onto the dents & was able to pull them out.

Hey STC would you have a photo of the deck of you're creek after fitting the shark shield pls. I'm trying to work out how to deal with the existing deck grip and tail pad without making a meal of fitting it. SJ may be interested too Cheers

They're more obvious on that model due to the mega gloss over wood.
It won't just come back, but if the rails are good its structurally sound enough

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Mark _australia said..
They're more obvious on that model due to the mega gloss over wood.
It won't just come back, but if the rails are good its structurally sound enough

Thanks Mark. The board has been used since in tame waves. Ha!
The rails seem to be ok. Just some minor cracking on top. None down the sides of the rails.

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backbeach said..
Hey STC would you have a photo of the deck of you're creek after fitting the shark shield pls. I'm trying to work out how to deal with the existing deck grip and tail pad without making a meal of fitting it. SJ may be interested too Cheers

hi backbeach,

The most important part is to figure where the final installation will fall on the bottom, after wrapping the connector around the rail.
The on I installed on Dave's board was made for a surfboard, so fitting it through the channels and getting it straight on the bottom and still be ahead of the sidebites took some creative routing. You don't have the option of making the ribbon connector shorter or longer, so how you twist it around the rail determines how to cut the deckpad.

The only fixed location is the tail pad battery pack.... everything else works away from that.

I used pieces of a deckpad to fill in and cover the rail wrap a bit.
I also lifted the railsaver Pro and hid it under that, as it wrapped around the rail.

Thanks Creek. Stoked to see you mould it around channels as well as I was wondering about that. I've got the larger size antenna which should give me more flexibility. Whale seasons starting and the mullet season is well underway and your handy work has inspired me to extract the digit

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supthecreek said..

Seajuice said..
Thanks bigmc. I don't normally surf close outs. But after making it through a few, it was so much fun. I had basically caught up to the whitewash of another wave & nose dived when I went over it. The water was less than 30cm deep.
My board creased & cracked a little at the rails. But was still water tight. But I epoxied over the cracks in case.
I trued to get the crease out with hot water & suction caps with not much success. The wood laminate nate it more difficult I think.
But anyway you would hardly notice the crease.

The crease should disappear over time.
EPS foam has memory, and will return to shape.
Epoxy is the same solid, as it is as a liquid, with many cross links that will allow the foam to slowly come back to shape.

Have you noticed that it is less than when it first happened?

This pic shows the bottom of my board when I arrived in Portugal.
I had disassembled my paddle and taped the parts to the board, inside the board bag.
My paddle handle had slipped under my board and something heavy must have been on my board for the flight, so it left a deep imprint of the handle.
No cracks, just a deep dent.
within 2 months it had totally come back to shape and there was no way to even find where it had been.



This was the area where the dent had been.
I sold the board and installed a "Shark Shield" for my buddy in June, so these pics are 5 months apart, but the dent was gone after only 2 months.

Had a JP Surf Pro which creased across the nose just by putting some weight on it in a hollow wave. It was a very new board so I took it back and after a couple of months plus of argy bargy, accusing me of hitting the sand etc etc, it was finally admitted that there was not enough resin applied to the board during manufacture. A fault from the factory. It was a shame because it surfed really well, and the little use I got out of it was heaps of fun. This was a long time ago before I discovered the magic of Sunova and Smik, thanks folks.
I agree with what STC says here about some boards being able to come back to shape. I had a Sunova that turned up with a sizeable dent in the rail and bottom. It had been freighted quite a distance, and I really couldn't be stuffed going through the whole rigmarole again (and there was good surf on) so I did something a little risky which actually worked quite well.
There was no damage to the skin, no cracks or marks, it had simply been compressed through the carton by the freight gorillas, so I sat the board outside with just that small portion in the sun. I wouldn't do this with a board without a vent, but I have faith in the one's that Sunova use having tested them out before. Today there is no evidence of the dent.
I would always recommend to contact who you purchased from first for their help, but this worked for me in this instance.