The top layer of resin peeled off my cocomat board from being left in the sun.

I have been getting fibreglass rash from carrying the board so I've sanded the top layer off.

Do I recoat it epoxy or polyester resin?

Thanks

Epoxy

Epoxy:
- epoxy has natural glueing properties (unlike polyester), so it will stick well to the deck. Your top layer may have been polyester to peel off so easily.
- epoxy has some flex, so it will flex under pressure rather than shatter like polyester

On the other hand, polyester is shinier, harder and more scratch resistant (e.g. to sand abrasion), this is why a lot of epoxy boards have actually a polyester hotcoat.

Epoxy it is then!
Thanks

I'll send you a tub of epoxy.
You send me that 12 6 Naish

UV stable epoxy. Kinetix 104 best, I know its a perfect match for the cocomat clear

Given your location and not needing much, Bote Cote UV stabilised might be best as they will sell small qty's

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Mark _australia said..
UV stable epoxy. Kinetix 104 best, I know its a perfect match for the cocomat clear

Given your location and not needing much, Bote Cote UV stabilised might be best as they will sell small qty's

Mark how does Bote Cote flow is it thick or thin-esh?

And can you buy Kinetix over the counter here in WA?

I am doing paulownia over EPS and looking to laminate in 2oz glass

Bote Cote is a litttlle thicker but not much in it. Kinetix at Fibreglass and Resin Sales
I pick the latter as its a surf industry standard, nothing wrong with Bote Cote but I'm trying to exact matches on clearness level for repairs
But only mentioned Bote Cote as they're in Qld and will sell a 150ml kit so might suit the OP better

Select to expand quote

Mark _australia said..
Bote Cote is a litttlle thicker but not much in it. Kinetix at Fibreglass and Resin Sales
I pick the latter as its a surf industry standard, nothing wrong with Bote Cote but I'm trying to exact matches on clearness level for repairs
But only mentioned Bote Cote as they're in Qld and will sell a 150ml kit so might suit the OP better

Hmm don't know how I missed Kinetix at F&RS (slaps forehead)

I got some Pro-Lam from Composites Warehouse (told it flows a bit better) a while ago with the plan of a final coat of 2 pack automotive for UV protection.

Waiting on fibreglass so haven't used yet to confirm.

Will definitely give the Kinetix a go after I use up the Pro-Lam.

Thanks Mark really appreciate the advice.

Select to expand quote

Mark _australia said..
Bote Cote is a litttlle thicker but not much in it. Kinetix at Fibreglass and Resin Sales
I pick the latter as its a surf industry standard, nothing wrong with Bote Cote but I'm trying to exact matches on clearness level for repairs
But only mentioned Bote Cote as they're in Qld and will sell a 150ml kit so might suit the OP better

Is this kit you were thinking best for me to purchase mate?

boatcraft.com.au/Shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=152

Yep
but for sample kit you have to specify non yellowing hardener.
It won't be as clear as surf resins too, but might be OK over coco.

But its the only way to get small qty of epoxy that I know of....

Select to expand quote

Mark _australia said..
Yep
but for sample kit you have to specify non yellowing hardener.
It won't be as clear as surf resins too, but might be OK over coco.

But its the only way to get small qty of epoxy that I know of....

Ordered, thanks.

What's the application method to get a nice finish, just a cheap paintbrush?

Sand and wash with water only
yup cheap varnish brush
second coat when it's almost hard will fil any fisheyes you might have and it's always worth that second coat to get some thickness and make your sanding easier

wet sand with 180 and a block to blend edges into deck then flatten the whole area
wet sand 240 and 400

thsts normally sufficient but if it stands out a squirt with satin clear might help

Select to expand quote

Mark _australia said..
Sand and wash with water only
yup cheap varnish brush
second coat when it's almost hard will fil any fisheyes you might have and it's always worth that second coat to get some thickness and make your sanding easier

wet sand with 180 and a block to blend edges into deck then flatten the whole area
wet sand 240 and 400

thsts normally sufficient but if it stands out a squirt with satin clear might help

The pack has arrived and it also includes a bottle of two pack water based polyurethane top cote - do I need to use this?

Select to expand quote

knot board said..

Mark _australia said..
Sand and wash with water only
yup cheap varnish brush
second coat when it's almost hard will fil any fisheyes you might have and it's always worth that second coat to get some thickness and make your sanding easier

wet sand with 180 and a block to blend edges into deck then flatten the whole area
wet sand 240 and 400

thsts normally sufficient but if it stands out a squirt with satin clear might help

The pack has arrived and it also includes a bottle of two pack water based polyurethane top cote - do I need to use this?

Mark is that for UV protection?

ewwwwww anything water based will be sh!t
no need to top coat over an actual uv stabilised epoxy

Select to expand quote

Mark _australia said..
ewwwwww anything water based will be sh!t
no need to top coat over an actual uv stabilised epoxy

+1

I tried water-based varnish once on a board, good quality for use in bathrooms. It was a disaster. It whitened and peeled away.

You need an UV-proof vanish on top of paint, not on top of UV-proof epoxy... that you can use as a varnish.