Well Huey certainly came good for the Christmas swell , I'm stuffed had 2 full on days at Double Island Point 2 days before Christmas. Had Christmas day off and then hit Snapper early on Boxing Day , paddled out through Little Marly into the rip and then got sucked out to the 10+ giants on the 3rd reef off Snapper managed to pull down a couple of big sets against the reverse sweep .Very hard to find the take off spot and you never seemed to be far enough out to sea , I was already 50m out past the shark nets when the mother of sets stood up on the horizon , I was my 9-6 PSH Hull Ripper Pro which has incredible paddling speed , it got me up the face and over the first set and as I cracked through the the lip to a massive free fall down the back of the wave and unbelievably my feet landed back on the board I kept paddling only to see the sky darken as this 12ft monster crested and broke on my head.It was almost a 2 wave hold , got my head up for a quick breath and continued to get pumbled.I had my paddle locked out front to stop the tumbling and drag back and then..... POP there goes my leggie. Finally I surfaced to see the Westpac Helicopter hoving over my head with the door open to rescue me , I gave them the thumbs up I'm OK but they wanted to bring me in as I was getting sucked back out to sea through the impact zone again. I strapped the handle of my paddle through my leg rope strap and started the long 500m swim in , they kept an eye on me for about 10 mins but left me when I got to the inner break. 20mins later I was standing on the beach reeling from my Christmas day hangover and XOS pounding ,the life guards had recovered my board and drove me back to my car

Sorry no pics of the big day still chasing down the photogs on the hill , these shots are from the following day at a different spot but the swell had dropped considerably , the paddle out was hell, persistence paid off for some great waves , but I was hurting from the previous days and only lasted an hour .These pics are from Michael Dawes a local Photog on the Gold Coast.

If you look at the face on the first pic the face I paddled over at Snapper the day before was easily well over double this size. I don't know when Huey will dish up swell like this again, but I can't say enough about the PSH 9-6 Hull Ripper Pro the board is so fast and sticks like sh!t to a blanket on any size wave and I've still been riding it in the smaller stuff and it rips ...just love it.

Kudos to you.

Ballsy, mad....great shots too. Stoked.

Thanks for sharing.

Nice shots Rob...... Why arnt u behind the camera , look out u might be showing the boys up...,

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dtm said...

Nice shots Rob...... Why arnt u behind the camera , look out u might be showing the boys up...,

Big swell is rare on the Goldie buggered if I'm going to stand on the beach and watch it. Did you get any of it down your way ?

yehaa!

Awesome stuff Rob love the second shot dig those toenails in yehaaaa!!!!

thats awesome how was DI ?

Charging shots mate! Awesome stuff!
It has been good down here, but not massive. I've been spending a bit of time on the 9'11 Hull ripper. Man you can pick any wave you want on those boards - yeeew!

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Piros said...

dtm said...

Nice shots Rob...... Why arnt u behind the camera , look out u might be showing the boys up...,

Big swell is rare on the Goldie buggered if I'm going to stand on the beach and watch it. Did you get any of it down your way ?

Yeah hasn't been really big but we have just had some pumping waves everyday these been waves gotta love it!!!! Yewwwwww

Ripping freak wish I was there. Talk soon

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jasdeking said...

thats awesome how was DI ?

First day 2ft 100m rides 30kn offshore pouring rain , day 2 4ft 300m peelers , still raining sorry no surfing shots. Super high tide cars got caught out.These guys
got stuck an hour from high tide so they just took the boards off the roof and went surfing and dug it out at low tide....classic.

what motley crew. you need to find a better class of paddler rob.

especially that wazza bloke

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laceys lane said...

what motley crew. you need to find a better class of paddle rob.

especially that wazza bloke

Yeah Lacey you can't take him anywhere...or Clarky.

Great photos, love the first one. Did he make it?

Looks borderline.

Second last photo is ok too.

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adolf said...

Great photos, love the first one. Did he make it?

Looks borderline.

Second last photo is ok too.

Yeah scratched over that one , luckily there wasn't another one.

good to see someone having a crack Rob, I know I wasnt......did the walk of shame on friday

looks like the Rainbow side of DI is still surrfering from mass errosion just past the cutting....Digging that Jackaroo out will be the least of their worries

Yeah they were at it for a few hours , they towed it away it diffidently didn't start. The car will be rooted.

Looks awesome Rob love your work :-)

Great shots and cool story - ballsy stuff taking on the 12 footers.

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Piros said...
PSH 9-6 Hull Ripper Pro the board is so fast and sticks like sh!t to a blanket on any size wave and I've still been riding it in the smaller stuff and it rips ...just love it.

awesome shots. i'm a little puzzled with idea of a sup "gun" unless your riding 10-15ft waves surely you wouldn't need a longer board to get into waves? 9'0-9'6 would be more than enough right????

Great shots.. Love the first one..

DJ