Hi

I got chased Back in this morning. Waist to shoulder high shore break (- 3 C). The residual of a big storm two days ago. I could catch the waves but would get launched by significant chop on the wave faces. It is a big board (8'10" x 130 litres) and with other surfers around it just felt wrong being out of control of the board. Any suggestions for dealing with these choppy faces?

Cheers

Bob

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FRP said..
Hi

I got chased Back in this morning. Waist to shoulder high shore break (- 3 C). The residual of a big storm two days ago. I could catch the waves but would get launched by significant chop on the wave faces. It is a big board (8'10" x 130 litres) and with other surfers around it just felt wrong being out of control of the board. Any suggestions for dealing with these choppy faces?

Cheers

Bob

Bob just had two days similar,got very frustrated and stayed out to long,and of course it went from bad to worse.my initial thoughts were this will be good practice!! and it was! Practice for being a silly old coot!,the thing is with sup good conditions are what it's about IMO ,I need to know when to find something else to do on the ****e days.

Shorebreak is hard to SUP surf unless you can find the shoulder of the waves.
Now, if you only have a problem with stability after catching the wave, the best advice is wider stance and BEND your knees.
Taking off and riding top to bottom closeouts is just difficult.

Good chance to take out your surfboard to work on other aspects of your surfing.
It would offer good cross over skills that you can apply directly to SUP
Just my 2 cents

You need a mush board with lower volume to have any hope . Best to avoid those days. Broke my thumb in onshore chop mush in less than two feet of waves

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Gboots said..
You need a mush board with lower volume to have any hope . Best to avoid those days. Broke my thumb in onshore chop mush in less than two feet of waves

Thanks guys,

All good advice. Yes a bit smaller board would have helped, bending my knees and wider stance. Crazy fast drops and then too far back for the bottom turn. I think if it was a clean wave face likely no problem but as it was just not in control of the board when I would hit a bump. I was watching the short boarders today when it was a bit bigger and they were close to air dropping. Amazing that they can stay in control. I am hoping it will clean up a bit over the next few days.
Cheers

Bob

Took out my small Speeed today . Was expecting clean based on surf reports but was chop city . A nightmare. Those onshore choppy beach break days need a wider board but not too much volume . On point breaks / or river inlets a longer narrower board works well on these days as it becomes like a mini downwind session

sounds like you need a longer board,width some nose width like the creeks .

I dont surf onshore much ! But when i do i padd'll out further and try to glide in ! I dont like taken off late ! Like Tardy said longer and fuller ! I ride a speed and the rocker thru the nose has saved me from the basalt reef plenty times !

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Tardy said..
sounds like you need a longer board,width some nose width like the creeks .

Out of the boards I have my oversized Acid 91 works best in onshore crap. Except when in in inlet surf then the best option is the 12 ft Venom

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LeeD said..
....... the best advice is wider stance and BEND your knees......

LeeD

This was the ticket. Out again this morning in very choppy conditions. Compressed as much as I could on the drop which moved my weight forward and kept the nose down. Trusted the wide nose not to pearl and the rough wave faces became manageable. Thanks!

Bob