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Big Left today.

Created by DavidJohn DavidJohn  > 9 months ago, 15 Aug 2014
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DavidJohn
DavidJohn

VIC

17569 posts

15 Aug 2014 5:31pm
Up at 5.30am to get there at dawn.

No waves anywhere else.. But there was a nice wave at Big Left (Flinders)

Here's how my day went.. with some more new music from Eric Clapton.

Stephenseals
Stephenseals

QLD

90 posts

15 Aug 2014 6:10pm
Select to expand quote
DavidJohn said..
Up at 5.30am to get there at dawn.

No waves anywhere else.. But there was a nice wave at Big Left (Flinders)

Here's how my day went.. with some more new music from Eric Clapton.



Looks like a beautiful morning the best time of day for sure.
Mottman29
Mottman29

WA

80 posts

15 Aug 2014 4:14pm
Great stuff DJ,
I am sitting here in Hua Hin Thailand and it is flat as a pancake so it's good to see someone getting a regular wave!
Awesome vid, cheers
Antho
Antho

VIC

516 posts

15 Aug 2014 8:19pm
It made me want to go for an early surf tomorrow.
Nozza
Nozza

VIC

2882 posts

15 Aug 2014 10:26pm
Nice one DJ - I should reply more when I watch your stuff - always excellent.
Was 100% fog Phillip Island side.




Helmy
Helmy

VIC

799 posts

15 Aug 2014 11:57pm
Hmm,
looks like a bit more concentration required than the "other" place DJ...?

Area10
Area10

1508 posts

15 Aug 2014 10:31pm
Very nice. You've got some great angles there. I'll even forgive you having your board the wrong way round on your rack. You should be getting sponsorship from the Melbourne Tourist board :)

What are the performance differences on a wave between the new 11x31 and the old (and existing) 10-6x30 Nalus?
flowmaster
flowmaster

359 posts

15 Aug 2014 11:22pm
Nice one, in my mind waves are a lot bigger in Australië , your surfing movies always show a very relaxt , soft schouder wave.
Is it this way in Melbourne, or is it by choice , cause you like these conditions best?



Greenroom
Greenroom

WA

7608 posts

15 Aug 2014 11:27pm
All that driving and all you got were 2 waves with no turns and a trip over the falls?
DavidJohn
DavidJohn

VIC

17569 posts

16 Aug 2014 1:29am
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Greenroom said..
All that driving and all you got was 2 waves with no turns and a trip over the falls?


No.. I got more trips over the falls than that..
Chilebear
Chilebear

128 posts

16 Aug 2014 1:05am
Cool vid....You make SUP look so amazing
pgc
pgc

pgc

VIC

886 posts

16 Aug 2014 8:01am
well done dj
bradsdubs
bradsdubs

QLD

161 posts

16 Aug 2014 10:55am
Looks like lots of fun DJ and thanks for posting. Thebest part is that no short boarders would be that far out for that type of wave [spilling wave] which means it's yours to enjoy and share. There would probably only be the odd racing ski out or sups I would imagine. I can see why the 11' suits your needs and conditions so well.. probably has good glide to slide onto waves very early allowing you to sit back [stand back]and enjoy the ride and take in the surroundings, without needing to be looking for the pocket every step of the way.
Just curious...ever see any noah's arks out there, or prefer not to think/talk about them?
BTW, I'm finding google maps [satellite] very handy.
Great video, thanks for championing the delights of recreational sup without focussing on competition. Fun sup is where it is at, and will always be, for most people.
sudsy
sudsy

VIC

76 posts

16 Aug 2014 12:16pm
Select to expand quote
DavidJohn said..

Greenroom said..
All that driving and all you got was 2 waves with no turns and a trip over the falls?



No.. I got more trips over the falls than that..


Great comeback , love your work . I'm still a little uneasy with the idea of filming and naming the breaks even if they are well known , but I guess it probably makes no difference , my attitude probably stems back to the seventies when we had to search and discover breaks for ourselves , no good living in the past , I;m glad i still have the memories and buzz of finding little known breaks and surfing them with just our mates .
wazza66
wazza66

QLD

620 posts

16 Aug 2014 12:51pm
Nice one DJ

Where abouts exactly is this spot for us QLD's

Beautiful countryside, better than fighting the masses at the Alley at 1/2 foot.

How cold was the water?

Rosscoe
Rosscoe

VIC

505 posts

16 Aug 2014 2:24pm
Bradsdubs: I've been surfing this break for well over 30 years and have never seen a shark. However, I have no doubt at all that they are around, as the break is only 3 - 4 km as the crow flies from seal rocks on Phillip Island - which I am sure is a large shark fast food outlet. There has been at least one very close encounter with a Great White in the last couple of years.

Also, about 2 winter's ago a baby blue whale (read: 30 foot of blubber) washed up dead on the rocks along the shore. Nothing like paddling out through a whale oil slick to keep the crowds down!
DavidJohn
DavidJohn

VIC

17569 posts

16 Aug 2014 4:34pm
Select to expand quote
Area10 said..
Very nice. You've got some great angles there. I'll even forgive you having your board the wrong way round on your rack. You should be getting sponsorship from the Melbourne Tourist board :)

What are the performance differences on a wave between the new 11x31 and the old (and existing) 10-6x30 Nalus?



Thanks guys.. The first noticeable difference between the 10'6" and the new 11' Nalu is that it's noticeably bigger and even the extra width is very noticeable just looking down at the nose.. even though it's only an inch.. The nose seems rounder.. You also notice a slight increase in rocker making it not quite as good a flat water paddler as the 10'6" but theextra rocker helps the board turn when surfing.. I like the deck shape and it's very different to the 10'6" because of the double concave standing area keep the very domed deck in the back half of the board without feeling like the dome is trying to roll your ankles when standing in parallel stance like I've felt before on some of the early Coreban wave boards.. I hated that.. This double concave looks like the deck so compressed in the standing area but it's designed that way from new.. The 11' feels much more stable when you move forward on the board to get early take offs or trim the board to milk the glide on a fading wave.. I think they've got the rocker and rails spot on with this new board and I'm sure it will become one of the great alrounders for those who can only have one board.
DavidJohn
DavidJohn

VIC

17569 posts

16 Aug 2014 4:49pm
Select to expand quote
sudsy said..

DavidJohn said..


Greenroom said..
All that driving and all you got was 2 waves with no turns and a trip over the falls?




No.. I got more trips over the falls than that..



Great comeback , love your work . I'm still a little uneasy with the idea of filming and naming the breaks even if they are well known , but I guess it probably makes no difference , my attitude probably stems back to the seventies when we had to search and discover breaks for ourselves , no good living in the past , I;m glad i still have the memories and buzz of finding little known breaks and surfing them with just our mates .


Thanks.. I expect comments like that from Greenie and I don't mind at all.. He knows me well and I know him well and I know his comment is not meant to be nasty.. We can't all be good surfers.. but we can all have fun.. and some waves like those classic waves at Hawaii Kaikiki are mostly good for surfing straight in.. Big Left is no secret spot but I know what you mean.. Things like that are always on my mind.. I'm sure there's some that might hate me for it but life's too short to worry about it.. We all had a lot of fun that day and it's a shame I didn't get some of the better moment on film.. Some huge sets rolled through.. It's a bommie like place that's very shifty so getting the take off spot is tricky and it's no place for learners.. It's a very long swim in if you break a leash.. and with some rides bring about 400 meters long is a long paddle back out at the end of the wave.. Love it..
DavidJohn
DavidJohn

VIC

17569 posts

17 Aug 2014 12:20am
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flowmaster said..
Nice one, in my mind waves are a lot bigger in Australië , your surfing movies always show a very relaxt , soft schouder wave.
Is it this way in Melbourne, or is it by choice , cause you like these conditions best?





It's by choice.. There's lots of bigger.. and more beach break type waves around..

I just choose the easy and fun [for me] type waves..
oliver
oliver

3952 posts

16 Aug 2014 10:51pm
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sudsy said..
Great comeback , love your work . I'm still a little uneasy with the idea of filming and naming the breaks even if they are well known , but I guess it probably makes no difference , my attitude probably stems back to the seventies when we had to search and discover breaks for ourselves , no good living in the past , I;m glad i still have the memories and buzz of finding little known breaks and surfing them with just our mates .


You just made me think of Puberty Blues.
DavidJohn
DavidJohn

VIC

17569 posts

17 Aug 2014 1:39am
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wazza66 said..
Nice one DJ

Where abouts exactly is this spot for us QLD's

Beautiful countryside, better than fighting the masses at the Alley at 1/2 foot.

How cold was the water?



The water is pretty cool.. We don't see many G stings on the girls..

It's about 11 deg.. so it's warmer than the air temp..
RockySnr
RockySnr

NSW

4 posts

17 Aug 2014 10:55pm
Love this video , I frequently surfed this spot 40 years ago , I can remember Pegleg on his big red surf ski sharing waves with us young blokes. He would drop a buoy out the back to show the take off zone . Just around the corner was The Gunnery , this was the place I had my last surf in Victoria before moving to fabulous Forster NSW . No more 11 deg icecream headaches for me .
Greenroom
Greenroom

WA

7608 posts

18 Aug 2014 8:53am
Select to expand quote
DavidJohn said...
sudsy said..

DavidJohn said..


Greenroom said..
All that driving and all you got was 2 waves with no turns and a trip over the falls?




No.. I got more trips over the falls than that..



Great comeback , love your work . I'm still a little uneasy with the idea of filming and naming the breaks even if they are well known , but I guess it probably makes no difference , my attitude probably stems back to the seventies when we had to search and discover breaks for ourselves , no good living in the past , I;m glad i still have the memories and buzz of finding little known breaks and surfing them with just our mates .


Thanks.. I expect comments like that from Greenie and I don't mind at all.. He knows me well and I know him well and I know his comment is not meant to be nasty.. We can't all be good surfers.. but we can all have fun..

Hahaha Yep DJ and I are good mates. If only we lived closer!

robdog
robdog

VIC

611 posts

2 Sep 2014 9:37pm
Love your choice of music DJ.
Here's an oldy but a goody with the same song different artist..




DavidJohn
DavidJohn

VIC

17569 posts

3 Sep 2014 12:52am
Thanks Rob.. That's a great vid.. and a great version of that song..

Shame Vimeo has put an end to using good music..
hilly
hilly

WA

7979 posts

2 Sep 2014 11:41pm
Very nice Robdog :)

Keep them coming DJ
OG SUP
OG SUP

VIC

3516 posts

13 Sep 2014 11:15am
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robdog said..
Love your choice of music DJ.
Here's an oldy but a goody with the same song different artist..






Great Vid RD,

Nice work by the Feeze on the PSH 12 Gun :)

tikipurple
tikipurple

SA

132 posts

13 Sep 2014 11:30am
That break looks familiar Robdog! Great little session.
TAA
TAA

TAA

SA

1255 posts

14 Sep 2014 11:12am
Nice vid Robdog..love my home break when it's on.
And you guys had it to yourself.. even better
deanrobi
deanrobi

VIC

641 posts

14 Sep 2014 1:06pm
Select to expand quote
DavidJohn said..
Thanks Rob.. That's a great vid.. and a great version of that song..

Shame Vimeo has put an end to using good music..


DJ, is VIMEO not allowing the uploading of video with shared music? and when did this happen
DavidJohn
DavidJohn

VIC

17569 posts

14 Sep 2014 6:57pm
Select to expand quote
deanrobi said..

DavidJohn said..
Thanks Rob.. That's a great vid.. and a great version of that song..

Shame Vimeo has put an end to using good music..



DJ, is VIMEO not allowing the uploading of video with shared music? and when did this happen


Yes.. The buggers.. After all these years of Vimeo being better than YouTube because you could use any music you like and not have it taken off because of the risk of copyright laws.. But Vimeo have now set up their own music store to make people buy music from them that can be used without any copyright problems (not that there was any anyway) but I guess they look at is as a way to make money.. It's a shame.. I just finished a new surfing vid last night.. Found some very cool music and edited it to match the music only to find that it's been pulled due for music copyright reasons.. Plus they don't allow the vid to be posted in silence like YouTube but just won't let it posted at all till you buy music from them to replace what you put there.. It's very odd because recently I've used Eric Clapton and Robert Plant and it went though fine.. and now I use an old band called Arcade Fire and it gets pulled.. Weird.. and not happy Jan..
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