Lots of fun summer surf so far.... I rode the left peak this session yewwwwwww!

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supthecreek said..
Lots of fun summer surf so far.... I rode the left peak this session yewwwwwww!

Thanks Creek

You make it look effortless. It is interesting that you are walking to the front of the board on the backside lines. For what ever reason this is what I do also. Is walking the board easier backside? Finally as if you don't know it but you make a "big splash" out there! Perfect form for demonstrating how to fall off a board.

Cheers

Bob

Thanks Bob
ha ha... it is shallow on those sandbars, so "fall flat" is the order of the day!
That, and keep the paddle away from everything.

As to effortless.... that is exactly the right word!
If you allow the tension to leave the body, then everything flows much more smoothly.... hence, everything gets easier.
When I was teaching SUP, I'd see that when people were so afraid to fall, that they would tensed up every muscle in their body to "Try harder"
I'd tell them..... "Smile"
"Come on... a BIG smile!"
They would instantly relax and stop shaking.... it was their "effort" that was holding them back.

I always prefer to noseride backside.
Until recently, I thought it was because I had greater rail control with my heels being close to the rail....
but, I have learned from my videos that it is probably my toeside control is better at micro managing the "down wave" adjustments...
meaning, while my heels easily hold the rail in the water, my toes control how I "release" the board and allow it to slide down the face to gain speed or to drop around a section. It's that control that I find most appealing about noseriding.
Funny thing is, I have a mental block about moving forward the last 5 inches to get "toes over"
My goal is always to stay on the nose for as long as possible and try to control the board from the front instead of running back and forth...
that means a lot of "back slams" when using little 3.5" fins in the rear slots

Nice riding Rick .. and some fancy foot work going on there ..I reckon you would be pretty handy on the dance floor too

Cheers STC for sharing the stoke.
70+ going on 17
If I'm still on the right side of the grass in 20 years, I want to be doing the same as you mate.
Gonna try that nose riding move on my backside next time I'm out, see how I go

So true. Keep em coming Creek, you are providing the stoke for many needy ones here.

Thanks Breezeoids... I am fortunate that the surf stoke is as strong now, as it was at at 16...... and it drives me to push hard everyday.

IMO, you need a plan if you want to keep ticking.

Somewhere after 60, I made a conscious decision to lower the chance of game ending injury.
I realized that body parts get weaker and are more easily be damaged.
Knees won't let me pig dog or go for tubes, so I stay on open faces and avoid lip slams....
I let go a tad earlier when things go bad, so I can control my falls and where my board goes.

My buddy hasn't learned that yet... so, in the past two years he has had several operations on shoulders and knees.... keeping him dry for up to 4 or 5 months a year.
He's just turned 60 and is a full on ripper... but he still lets the lip blow his board up into him, on thick double OH beach break tubes.
When it's bigger, I choose to travel to mellower point breaks, where waves have less impact.

IMO, longevity requires moving parts to stay moving.... so I avoid the nasty bits whenever possible!