I got bored of waiting for a 2022 Starboard Hypernut to ever be in stock, after being informed maybe early 2023, and the massive discount on the 2021 Hypernut finally became too tempting, so I picked one up last week. (8 foot, 4 in 1, 2021, in Starlite)

This isn't my first dance with rail tape. I attempted to put some onto my Wedge and it came out like a dog's breakfast, so I removed it after a month and went naked. I decided to try again with the new board and this time I watched a bunch of videos, including our own supthecreek's old video, on the topic. I followed all of the great instructions and the RSPro tape looked pretty good. But the next day all the bits of water that I didn't manage to squeege out collected in some places in the middle of the tape. What's annoying is that I thought I got it all out initially. Now the areas around the watery bits are stuck down hard and I cannot seem to push the water out.

Any ideas? Do I heat up the tape slightly and try again to get the water out? I am at an age now where I recognise my strengths and weaknesses. Putting sticky stuff onto things neatly is not one of my strengths unfortunately. If we lived on the same continent, I would drive to Rick and pay him to put some tape onto my boards.

Same happened to me and I couldn't be bothered doing anything about it.
After a while it resolved itself - bubbles disappeared?
Maybe a heat thing, Aussie summer, I don't know.
At least it will still be protecting the rail if you give it a while and see what happens.

Thanks. Unfortunately I am now in the northern hemisphere autumn and the dawn patrols are getting more chilly by the day. I wonder if I can help the situation with a bit of a liberal application of the heat gun.

I tried putting my own rail tape on, it just looked so crap. I eventually took it to a shop that charged me for the tape but not for the installation, which was nice of them. I got to sit down and watch him through the process, I think bubbles are unavoidable but it is about then getting them out. He used something similar to this www.aliexpress.com/item/4001157540456.html and a heat gun. Great result. Good luck with doing it yourself.

I've used a syringe/needle before... tiny hole to drain, then push down. Water never finds its way back in...

I often use coloured rail tape and that's a sure way to avoid those annoying tiny air bubbles.. because you can't see them..

DJ , that last wave you get on that clip is so classic. You are the ultimate glide master!
With an absolutely cracking soundtrack (must get my hands on a copy of that version) - it had me cackling to myself like mad man!
What a joy to watch - thanks man.

Thanks for the replies, chaps. I am happy to at least find out that it's not just a "me" problem.

Hola muchachos, he de reconocer que donde vivie DJ, una de dos, o hace mucho calor o simplemente desconoce la existencia de los secadores de mano, para se?oras o caballeros (como ?l, con pelo todavia ) porque sin duda alguna, esa es la mejor manera de colocar el protector de cantos, aplicando calor a la cita a medida que la vamos colocando, desenrrollando y pegando, aqu? en Santander , Espa?a, Mar Cant?brico, no existe otra manera.
Un abrazo a todos y ya sab?is, protector de cantos y secador de pelo

Yeah, rail tape can be a drag to install on some boards because of the rail shape or board outline. a very pointy board is hard to wrap the tape toward the nose where it gets thin and has a lot of turn in the rail. I have come to the conclusion that most rail tape is too wide. IMO, only the very outside edge of the rail needs protection, so I have been experimenting with other kinds of tape that are only 2" wide. They bend around the turn of the nose without getting the difficult bends in the tape. my last experiment was pretty awesome.

I bought "Gaffer" tape that is used on movie sets to tape down objects. One great feature is that it pulls off with ZERO residue. It wraps all bends and turns flawlessly, with no bubbles.

60 yards for $14 USD!

Problem is:
it cuts easily with paddle whacks. But has never lifted or gotten funky. I have left it on for 4 months so far and it seems to be providing good protection. The picture looks pretty beat up but the marks don't get through to the rail. I am not particularly recommending any tape but just discussing options that are MUCH cheaper and easy. I have so much Gaffer tape left that I could easily remove and replace my tape in a few minutes. anyway... someone should make a 2" wide rail tape that is affordable

True. I even now use a mere 1" wide strip of helicopter tape as rail saver, on the 3' rail section I hit near the nose.

The tape I used is 1.57", which definitely made it easier to apply., I have tried much wider tape in the past and learnt my lessons already.

Select to expand quote

MangoDingo said..
DJ , that last wave you get on that clip is so classic. You are the ultimate glide master!
With an absolutely cracking soundtrack (must get my hands on a copy of that version) - it had me cackling to myself like mad man!
What a joy to watch - thanks man.

Thanks mate.. Sometimes 1' waves can be fun.

Can you guys remind me what kind of helicopter tape you use? Thanks

Helicopter Tape 8671HS, thickness 0.22mm (or 14 mil in imperial).

That's the most commonly found. 3M makes a lot of polyurethane protective tapes, but this one seems the most commonly used (and the only one I have ever found). www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/c/tapes/surface-protective/
3M products are generally better than the competition, especially for the quality of the glues.

You will find then in rolls of various width and lengths, but it is easy to re-cut.
Be careful with an exacto knife, as the tape stretches. I stick the tape between two wood bars in vices before running a cermic knife on it to cut it lengthwise, but scissors work too.