HI,

Maybe i should find something better to do, but i have a starboard ace (14ft version) the one that has the 2 footwells with a tunnel running down the centre.

I really like the board but hate the centre tunnel, and am thinking about removing it and going for a flat deck. It seems like the high rails would add plenty of rigidity to the board and the tunnel is just there as overkill.

Has anyone tried this surgical procedure on their ace or have any thoughts on this?

Cheers Chris

Good idea IMO

Good Idea tough job , I have seen the reverse done (dig out a deck) worked fine for a while then it leaked along the rail join , the board was a right off it just drank so much water.

Remember these boards twist and flex so the overlap and scarf joint needs to be pretty serious.......

Thanks Dave and Piros, you are the go to ideas men on the forum, if you think its a good idea i will go for it!

I think i am getting enthused... the joins will be mostly hidden under a new deck pad, its just the front end of the seam will need to be sorted to look good.
I have a roll of corecork and 40litres of epoxy in my workshop which is begging to be used, might have to see if i can jam a decent handle in it as well.

I might have to build a can holder into it up front as a homage to the tinnie in piros' original fin video.

Cheers Chris

good idea to get rid of it... 2/3 layers of 6oz at least..anything less will look like hail damage in that heavy use spot after a short while....and carry some 5 min araldite in case cracks appear

I'd consider using something like divinycell..

Thanks for the info, i have some divinycell knocking about, i just hate bending it around curves but it should be all pretty straight going i think.
Last sup i built i used innegra, corecork and then carbon x 2 on the deck and it has been crazy strong, so could go either way depending on what materials i find.

I suppose i better be really careful with my joints, being hidden by the deckpad will make them hard to inspect for wear and tear.

There is a social paddle that i am going in next weekend, so i might make a start after that.

I was toying with the idea of adding some short stringers into the section but, thought it might create more problems than it solves.

In the meantime i might start building up a router jig so i can take it out nice and clean, thinking i might add a bit of a compartment in the front to hold my car keys.
Will post up photos once i get going.

Cheers chris

Ask Sam Parker at WindSurfnSnow ay Collaroy; I'm certain he did just that to one of his early 14ft Aces. It's still around and going fine if I'm not mistaken.

Similar to what Piros mentioned - be careful in adding too much stiffness into the middle of what is a flexyish board (ie, 3 layers of 6oz). That will almost guarantee cracks at the joints over time.

I would try to copy the original build layup as close as possible.

Thanks Damo & Kieran

I like the sound the sound that it has been done already.
Ill pull apart he skin i remove off the board and have a close look at what the layup is.

Cheers chris

All sounds really interesting.
Be good if you can video some of the action for us.
good luck with the project

I did it. Regretted it. I would advise you not to touch your footwell Ace. It is a VERY BAD IDEA to mess around with the board.

Buy a 2015 one that would solve the issue..
why didn't it work PT? I imagine it changes the whole weight and feel of the board??

Hi Pt,

Thanks for you reply, can you elaborate on the probs, I don't want to create 14 ft of landfill if I can help it.
Buying a 2015 would solve the problem but may create some problems with the minster of finances!

I have been toying with building a strip plank version of the ace over the winter maybe I should get into that.

Cheers chris

Weight problems were the main issue but also being quite an old board now, I discovered it was quite brittle. I think it was a perfectly sound board that became one problem after another. It turned into a money pit, and now it's just a museum piece. I know of other people who have had big ideas to improve on the slightly flawed boards they have and in just about every case, I think it would have been better to cut and run.

Select to expand quote

AndyR said..
Buy a 2015 one that would solve the issue..

You'd only need a 2013 model as they did away with the footwell hump with that model. It was 2012 and earlier that featured the hump.

Take it from someone who,s fked up a couple boards , get a pro to do it My experiment with my coreban turbo worked a treat until it started leaking

Select to expand quote

highvolume said..
Thanks for the info, i have some divinycell knocking about, i just hate bending it around curves but it should be all pretty straight going i think.
Last sup i built i used innegra, corecork and then carbon x 2 on the deck and it has been crazy strong, so could go either way depending on what materials i find.

I suppose i better be really careful with my joints, being hidden by the deckpad will make them hard to inspect for wear and tear.

There is a social paddle that i am going in next weekend, so i might make a start after that.

I was toying with the idea of adding some short stringers into the section but, thought it might create more problems than it solves.

In the meantime i might start building up a router jig so i can take it out nice and clean, thinking i might add a bit of a compartment in the front to hold my car keys.
Will post up photos once i get going.

Cheers chris

Hi , Highvolume, i did wonder to use this material to fix delam on shortboard back foot placement many years ago... so now i think to use it on SUP .
I want to stick inside a depression same shape as deck grip, deep as thickness of the material sheet , sand flush it to the foam level of deck then laminate with only one layer of glass/epoxy.
Depression has to be made on my new shortSUP by CNC... can be done with a router on your 14' , i think but never done and she is not mine

Select to expand quote

PTWoody said...

AndyR said..
Buy a 2015 one that would solve the issue..

You'd only need a 2013 model as they did away with the footwell hump with that model. It was 2012 and earlier that featured the hump.

This is true but the 2015 is the better of the lot isn't it? I actually liked the 2012 board I felt quick on it in the couple DW I did in one.
I know what you mean by brital starboard in 2012 must of been pushing the limits with how thin they could go with the carbon, my coast runner gets a ding and crack seriously almost every month. More forigen compounds in it than original material I reckon now. Still love it still paddle it weekly.

I am running a bit hot and cold on this at the moment.. but suspect I now can not resist the temptation to de tunnel the board.

Sat down and had a good look at it tonight.

I am confident I can remove the tunnel neatly and easily.

Then rout out for divinycell and patch, or maybe go the whole hog and remove the whole cockpit floor fit high density xp foam and then divinycell.
Once all fitted, vac bag the lot with a 40mm overlap. Haven't done a calc on weight change but shouldn't be too dramatic as long as I get a good seal on the vac.

I use the board as recreational only so if I add a kg its no biggie. If I accidentally shorten the life of the board...well I'll just have to get a new one??

Better do some more research on bonding new to old, that swaylocks forum has some good info on it but people also love to argue which I find heavy going.

Cheers chris

Select to expand quote

teatrea said...
Take it from someone who,s fked up a couple boards , get a pro to do it My experiment with my coreban turbo worked a treat until it started leaking

What happens TT where did you go wrong? Thought you were onto a winner with the dug out idea

Select to expand quote

AndyR said..

teatrea said...
Take it from someone who,s fked up a couple boards , get a pro to do it My experiment with my coreban turbo worked a treat until it started leaking

What happens TT where did you go wrong? Thought you were onto a winner with the dug out idea

It worked really well i was stoked on how it performed , i just had no idea what i was doing glassing wise. Not sure where the water is getting in. One thing it did reinforce to me is if you want a fast board that is also stable you need a recessed deck , so my next board I purchase will have these.

Fair enough.. I'm a shiiit house at glassing too haha.. good project though as I think you said before you weren't to concerned if you stuffed it.
I also think recessed deck gives you that little bit more stability on narrower boards and hopefully that turns to being quicker.. Interesting how the all star has gone to more a flat deck in 2015 but I would think thats because its more of a BOP board and getting on and off a board at the beach a flat deck has to be easier and quicker.
DC is producing some awesome recessed decked boards that look good.