Question....I have a Hokua ...lots of rocker ..it does loose Speed coming out of turns unless in the pocket .
I m guessing its to do with the rocket ,as I jumped on a 9.5 mana alot less rocker it has speed ,and seems to come out of the turns with speed ,how ever does nose dive a bit easier .
so is too much rocker a issue ...might try using as a quad ,might give me more speed .
any feed back on board design or issues you have experienced .
please share .

The most probable cause is that you are not doing your turn close enough to the pocket/curl.

Boards with tails with high rocker and narrow outline work best when they are working in a very powerful section of the wave.
Flatter rockers like on the mana will work best on flatter sections of the wave.

Also, shapes like the Hokua may be more driven with the front foot in turns, try to engage fully the rail and not stall them.

Basically, these "shortboard" shapes need to be ridden like a shortboard: in the pocket, and keeping being "late" relative to the curl: always in a hurry trying to rejoin the curl, rather than leisurely carving ahead on the shoulder.

Or your waves where to weak for the hokua: then you need to pump heavily in turns to generate speed.

Get in "white rabbit mode" !

Thank s colas

i thought it was my style ...=' ' ...and yes it is a slower wave where I surf the Hokua .but it excels when it has size .

where the mana is a loose little board in small slower waves .

I reckon I will have to have at least 2 wave boards ....maybe 3 ..=' '

I am looking for another one now .i would like to get a mixture of the two .

but 9' or 9.5 ' I don't like long boards .as Im not a nose rider , pretty much ride on the tail .




After giving this some thought I think it is that I haven't found the board that suits my style of surfing yet ,I know when I was surfing (short board ) it took heaps of different board before I found I board I liked and could rip on it .I found a couple of real good ones ,it was a shame the surfboards only last 1 year before they are stuffed .the search begins ..
How many board before I find the right one who knows ...

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Tardy said..
I don't like long boards .as Im not a nose rider , pretty much ride on the tail .

I then would advise you get a Simmons or a Fish design (a genuine one, with a wide tail), no more than 8' in length.
Or a "Tomo" shape designed for weak waves (flat rocker, and some volume in the rails)
This will give you the weak waves efficiency of a longboard, but with shortboard accelerations and turns. Instant gratification!

The drawback is that you will have to move your rear foot around... but no need to walk everywhere like on a longSUP.

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colas said..

Tardy said..
I don't like long boards .as Im not a nose rider , pretty much ride on the tail .

I then would advise you get a Simmons or a Fish design (a genuine one, with a wide tail), no more than 8' in length.
Or a "Tomo" shape designed for weak waves (flat rocker, and some volume in the rails)
This will give you the weak waves efficiency of a longboard, but with shortboard accelerations and turns. Instant gratification!

The drawback is that you will have to move your rear foot around... but no need to walk everywhere like on a longSUP.

Thanks colas.again
Ive been doing some research and yes ,you are right ..short and fat ... ..looking at a 7.0 raptor .128 litre .

good way of describing:


"keeping being "late" relative to the curl: always in a hurry trying to rejoin the curl, rather than leisurely carving ahead on the shoulder. "

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Tardy said..
Ive been doing some research and yes ,you are right ..short and fat ... ..looking at a 7.0 raptor .128 litre .

Yep, a 7'0" Raptor should be insane fun in weak waves!
Here is Xavier Leroy on a Tomo-like 6'8", with very thick and boxy rails. Something people will tell you does not look sexy, but is killer in weak waves. I guess the Raptor is similar.

Thanks for the vids colas...he really does come out of those turns .with speed.....short board s look like fun.

It did help making up my mind ...

i brought a 7.0 Raptor .LE 128 2016 ...yesterday.
the new ones need wax and not carbon ..but cheaper.....yet to try it out ..

i went the bigger one as it is made for 95 kg lumps like me ...
gotta go .....Im out there .

let ya know how it go ...

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Tardy said..
Thanks for the vids colas...he really does come out of those turns .with speed.....short board s look like fun.

It did help making up my mind ...

i brought a 7.0 Raptor .LE 128 2016 ...yesterday.
the new ones need wax and not carbon ..but cheaper.....yet to try it out ..

i went the bigger one as it is made for 95 kg lumps like me ...
gotta go .....Im out there .

let ya know how it go ...

We'll need photos and vid - and make sure you get vertical

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cantSUPenough said..

Tardy said..
Thanks for the vids colas...he really does come out of those turns .with speed.....short board s look like fun.

It did help making up my mind ...

i brought a 7.0 Raptor .LE 128 2016 ...yesterday.
the new ones need wax and not carbon ..but cheaper.....yet to try it out ..

i went the bigger one as it is made for 95 kg lumps like me ...
gotta go .....Im out there .

let ya know how it go ...

We'll need photos and vid - and make sure you get vertical

Childs play photos coming .
might take me a week to get use to dropping 40 litres and 2 and a half feet .

The main trick to learn on a 7' SUP is to paddle in fencing/surfing stance, so that you can move your body weight around to take off by timing your weight transfers at the right time rather than brute paddling force. Do not hesitate to bend your knee, the rear knee can even touch the board at times.

Best trick is train on gentle small waves, wait for them, and try to take off just when they lift the tail: you should feel things "clicking in place" when done right.

Colas,

Thanks for the insight on these as well as all things.

I find that with my 8/11 x 30 130 liter, noserider, surfy rocker, slow to paddle, that it pays to stand a few inches behind center with nose raised a bit, to help in catching waves, as moving forward slows the board. Also, using the body to paddle at a higher speed with less stress. In slow, and often small and mushy surf.

Occasionally, it helps to step forward to drop down the wave. But more importantly not to try to catch a wave too early, or too far off the peak and fading to the side.

Can you describe the mechanics associated with the "feel" of weighting front and back feet during the catch, as you understand it? When? How? Why?

I guess a long board is not as responsive, as it requires one to change foot positions so much; but, couldn't it offer the best of all worlds? Center riding for speed, moving back to ride as short board, moving forward towards the nose to stay on slowing wave, or styling, ease of use for less talented paddlers? I guess it could also be an early planing design on top of all this to keep speed in slow stuff.

Bill

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billekrub said..
Can you describe the mechanics associated with the "feel" of weighting front and back feet during the catch, as you understand it? When? How? Why?

Difficult to say. Everytime I come up with what I feel is the proper theory, the next session plays differently... Basically the optimal take off is when the nose of your boards is just skimming over the surface, and your take off position must allow your body to move as freely as possible to counter the wave forces to keep the nose down... but not nosediving.

One thing I am sure is that when done right, you have the feeling of entering a skate ramp or a ski slope: all your body lurches forward and down into the drop.



PS: Yes, a performance longboard shape is quite versatile. But the turbo-kick-in-the-a** accelerations of a ShortSUP are so addictive...