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supthecreek said..
He only surfs the back half of the board. If you watch for it, the nose half never touches the water during an entire wave after takeoff.
Well, I guess it comes from 2 factors: such a length may not actually needed for these conditions, thus trying to reduce the turn radius + PSH boards typically must be turned from the rear, as opposed to "front footers" boards (more constant curve rocker, wide point forward). The advantages is that PSH boards has some "speed reserve" with the flatter rocker in the middle (3 parts rocker)
But yes, length in big waves is needed for paddling speed, both getting into the wave (which travels faster, and amplifies offshore winds climbing up the face), and for stability at speed getting down the face.
And of course survivability, to paddle like hell to escape the bombs :-)