Anyone else finding this board chipping at the drop of a hat. I have a PSH which gets banged about pretty often with little to show for it, the Hokua looks for reasons to chip.

probably no one is going to reply to your post for a number of reasons.......like this is your first post and involves a complaint.........your profile has zero information about yourself......you haven't said Hi and Howdy to the forum
......Well that's 3 reasons anyway

Hmm...another first SUP forum post having a pop at Naish? It's almost enough to make you wonder if competitor brands would encourage this sort of thing...

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Area10 said..
Hmm...another first SUP forum post having a pop at Naish? It's almost enough to make you wonder if competitor brands would encourage this sort of thing...

I doubt that would be the case ... especially since there are many board models from many other manufacturers that chip easily as well. It's not something companies do as practice.

I have never seen the 2016 Naishes, but:
- do you have a paddle protection? when 2 hard surfaces hit, one is going to give and get damaged: either your paddle or the rails. Putting some helicopter or electrical tape around the blade gives you protection with nearly no turbulences.
- chipping is not a problem if it stays cosmetic. Just re-paint before reselling
- the weather condition at the factory can make a paint more or less resiliant... some boards will chip, others not.
- on some extreme cases, a board that chips a lot can hide construction defects : like a sander that sanded away the fiber in the rails and covered his mistakes with paste. Is it just the paint that gets aways, or the dents have some depth?

Why doesn't the Admin delete posts like this ?


not yours Colas ??

It s actually the opposite ...the GT Hokua is the hardest ,toughest board Ive ever had....no chips on mine AT ALL..
a few scratches where it went up on rocks after a broken leg rope ,but great construction ..
If you've owned surfboards ...you will know how to treat boards ...

thats if this is a true post.

Thats a particularly condescending answer Tardy, its got nothing to do with "if you've owned surfboards".

I recenlty sold a GT Mana that would chip if you looked at it the wrong way (thats with a taped paddle). As with most in this place i've surfed for 30+ years and owned literally hundreds of boards, this is the only one that suffered like this.

I also agree with Colas that its not a massive issue and cosmetic only, but that paint layer on this one was definitley soft.

And this isnt particularly big a dig at Naish (we've owned two Nalus that were bulletproof) but there does appear to be issues with some boards.
I'm sure Naish are NOT the only manufacturer to suffer this.

My Fanatics have been doing the same thing. Shoulda put on rail tape back when they were new I guess!

My neighbour recently went to buy a Naish X32 which had previously had quite a few chips taken out of the rails. The seller told us that they had sanded the rails back a bit, then got some enamel spray paint colour matched and did about 5 coats on the rails. You couldn't tell that there was ever any problem.

Think I'll do the same with my board, and as soon as thats done, I'm getting some rail tape!

PS anybody else tried the enamel spray paint fixit? Seems good to me but I aint no paint expert.....

I have the LE and it did chip a bit at the nose, but nothing too extreme.

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Chris_M said..
My Fanatics have been doing the same thing. Shoulda put on rail tape back when they were new I guess!

My neighbour recently went to buy a Naish X32 which had previously had quite a few chips taken out of the rails. The seller told us that they had sanded the rails back a bit, then got some enamel spray paint colour matched and did about 5 coats on the rails. You couldn't tell that there was ever any problem.

Think I'll do the same with my board, and as soon as thats done, I'm getting some rail tape!

PS anybody else tried the enamel spray paint fixit? Seems good to me but I aint no paint expert.....

I tried patching chips by filling and painting with spray cans.
The spray can paint never seemed to properly harden, and didn't stick very well even though I had sanded back in preparation.
Had much more success with marine enamel (Bunnings stock it - International Toplac) and a Wagner spray gun.

or take it to the experts......they not going to charge much if no actual ding repair involved

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Nozza said..
The spray can paint never seemed to properly harden, and didn't stick very well even though

Standard spray cans work very well, if you only apply very thin layers, each nearly transparent. You need to apply 5 or more layers.
If you try to get an opaque layer in a single pass, it won't dry well, and chip.
And you should protect the paint by a clear varnish afterwards. 2 to 3 thin layers.

I use a small piece of tape that I apply on the nozzle hole between layers, so that I do not have to use up gas purging the nozzle.

To fill in the chip holes/depressions, I often use solarez, much more practical than waiting for a normal resin to cure.

Protec make two pack in a spray can, little bit tricky to use but its possible. Better to shoot it with a gun.

To fix I would use West system epoxy with micro balloons, Protec high build primer and Duratec 600 two pack to finish. Buff the job with Farecla for a mirror finish.

If your an office dweller all that stuff will be a mile beyond your skills and you should take it to a shop for repair or trade.

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colas said..

Nozza said..
The spray can paint never seemed to properly harden, and didn't stick very well even though

Standard spray cans work very well, if you only apply very thin layers, each nearly transparent. You need to apply 5 or more layers.
If you try to get an opaque layer in a single pass, it won't dry well, and chip.
And you should protect the paint by a clear varnish afterwards. 2 to 3 thin layers.

I use a small piece of tape that I apply on the nozzle hole between layers, so that I do not have to use up gas purging the nozzle.

To fill in the chip holes/depressions, I often use solarez, much more practical than waiting for a normal resin to cure.

i recommend just taking it to the experts........they operate in this medium all the time. They have the right sanders.......they have the right paint.......they have sophisticated spray equipment that they have spent countless hours using

Sonic in Stanley Road if you live in this neck of the woods